We took a minivan bus from our Positano hotel, and headed back up the hill and out of town. Just before 9am, we met up with our driver Maurizio, and headed with our group bus to Pompeii.

Entrance to Pompeii

We got there around 9:30, met up with our guide Guitano, and went on a fantastic tour of Pompeii! It turned out to be my favorite place in all of Italy.

I think we were there for about 4.5 hours. Pompeii is preserved because Mount Vesuvius errupted prior to 100 AD. Under the soil and rubble is an amazing glimpse into a Roman city, from about 2700 years ago, possibly longer.

It was amazing to see how water would have flowed from a mountain about 21 miles away with basic pressure principles into the city. The streets, and delineations of 2 way or 1 way and cross walks, as well as “dead ends” to stop ‘traffic’ prior to the city square/plaza where people could socialize… I could not believe how advanced they were, and how many of our basic city building fundamentals come from back then.

Street leading to town square	2-way street marked by 3 rocks, plus serves as a cross-walk		Mt. Vesuvius looms behind town square
End of street	Real body of person killed instantly by the volcanic erruption	Bath-house
Hot food brought out into these holes to be served in public	Major street. Bends so that when it rained the water would funnel to the sides and flow out through the side ‘gutters’		Water pipes sometimes ran just below ground

We saw a rich man’s home (would have had slaves, and those slaves had rooms, and right to worship whatever idols they wanted, as long as they worshiped the emperor too), a brothel, a bakery, Basilica, bath house, gym, average man’s house, ‘apartment building’, plaza and amphitheatre. Also saw Jupiter’s Temple. Absolutely amazing to think they were so “civilized” and, organized and practical creating very well managed cities.

Entrance to a rich man’s home	Inside this home	Mosaic of Alexander on the floor, probably close to the living room	Bakery
		Brothel	Brothel bed

We had a very rushed lunch, because after the group finished, 6 of us rushed to the amphitheatre, then rushed to get food and on to our meeting spot. We hopped on the 2pm train to Sorrento. It was packed and Tobia and I stood the entire time (30 minutes, 8 stops, roughly).

Amphitheatre

Lovely train to Sorrento

Once in Sorrento, we walked for a bit, then reached a gelato house, where we saw a gelato making demo. We got to taste the lemon/slightly orangey gelato… really fresh and delicious. Then had a chance to taste others, so had blackberry and pistacchio.

Gelato making demo

Looking across the Bay of Naples at Mt. Vesuvius from Sorrento

Men’s only club in Sorrento

We had an orientation walk across town (new and old) then checked into hotel. Exhausted from long day and heat, we relaxed a bit, interneted, and eventually headed to an early walk and dinner. Following dinner, walked around some more, went down to harbor and picked up some water at the market, and then came back to hotel lobby to internet, catch up on things before turning on for the night.

We woke up late today, at 10:15am with no alarm. It felt great to sleep in, though we missed breakfast. We did some laundry and ended up walking outside of our hotel.

We walked to Positano harbor just in time to catch the “jet” boat to Amalfi at 11:20am. We got to Amalfi just before noon. Had lunch outdoors under umbrella then went into Amalfi Cathedral. We saw the Cloister of Paradise, Basilica of the Crucifix, the Crypt of Andrew and the Cathedral itself.

Leaving Positano for Amalfi	Amalfi		Amalfi Cathedral
			Mother-of-pearl cross

We got gelato on our way out, walked around, including the harbor edge, and then sat at a cafe in the shade drinking lemon ice tea until the 3pm boat came.

On the boat ride back we got great views of Amalfi and Positano as we got closer.

Coastline back towards Positano
The 3 islands said to represent the sirens	Positano

We got in around 3:40pm. Walked up to top to get the classic views of Positano. Then walked back to our hotel room, to clean up and wind down before heading down to the breakfast room to internet and catch up on the day while reading blogs and journaling.

My buddy Dona, and I. I’m sporting a tiny Canadian flag pin- she had just given me- on my hat.

We had a 7pm group dinner and afterwards went uphill for a short walk, where we got fantastic views/colors/pics of Positano from above. Then continued down to the beach, walking to the end where the last of the restaurants are, before turning back and returning to our room.

We left Matera in the morning headed to the Campania region of Italy, in the south west. After a short break, and a total of about 3 hours of bus driving, we stopped at an Organic Water Buffalo Farm called Vannulo.

En route, we talked with our guide Nina about contemporary Italy. We talked politics, health care, government, differences between the cultures, Mama’s Boys “Mamone”, and how Americans view Italians and vice versa… interesting stuff.

At the Water Buffalo Farm we went on a tour, seeing the workers pinch smaller and smaller chunks of mozzarella cheese while showing the softness and richness of it. From there, we went to see the Water Buffaloes, and even saw how they get robo-auto-milked, whenever they want. It’s all clean, organic and impressive, the animals are treated very well- we got to see all the steps involved in the animals’ lives, including a massage brush they’re allowed to use.

Vannulo Water Buffalo Farm		Not a bad existence
Milking machine	After giving milk the Water Buffalo are free to eat

After this we got to sit down for a fantastic lunch consisting of all water buffalo based milk: riccota cheese, mozzarella cheese, excellent olive/anchovie bread, greens salad, and divine cherry tomato salad. For dessert, banana flavored yogurt, then either a choice of gelato or cappucino. All really great!

Riccota cheese (first time I ever enjoyed that)

The triangular mozzarella pieces were excellent

More food

Even more food

From there, continued down the road for 5 minutes to get to Paestum. Some of the best preserved Greek ruins can be found there. We saw 3 well preserved temples there. At the museum, saw slabs from tombstones from roughly 6th century bc. In particular was a diver image on tomb, looking like he’s jumping off the columns of the temple.

Paestum
		Museum; much of the art focused on various battles and killings
Face carved into rock	Tomb of the Diver, probably the most well known piece in this museum

After that, drove passed Battipaglia and Salerno, which overlooked the Mediterranean, big port city, from above. Salerno is just before the Amalfi Coast. Due to driving restrictions and only 1 lane in each direction, we had to drive around, and curve back the long way into Positano. Because of that, we were able to see the Bay of Naples in addition to Mount Vesuvius- the view from the bus was spectacular. We also passed Seiano, beautiful views of water and towns far away and below.

Bay of Naples and Mt. Vesuvius

The 3 Islands, said to represent the remains of the three sirens who tried to tempt Ulysses

Saw Li Galli Islands just prior to Positano. 3 islands, supposedly as a result of sirens trying to temp Ulysses on his way back home on sea. Presumably these 3 sirens tried to tempt Ulysses, but failed, so they died and became those 3 islands. Beautiful.

We got off the bus a few miles before Positano, as it was too large and not legal to drive, and got in a smaller bus (2 actually, div’d group to 2). Got in after 6pm, did some laundry, took lots of pics from nice view but tiny balcony. From there 7:15pm meeting with group, walked down to the beach, oriented and figured out where to get tix for possible activities tomorrow.

Positano

Lovely roof-topped restaurant where Tobia and I had a great dinner

After that walked up the only street in Positano up the hill about 20 minutes and had most charming, delicious, dinner just the two of us. “Il Capitano”. After that, came back to our room around 11pm, went to lobby to internet and catch up on the day before shutting down for the night.