So Tobia and I returned there determined to walk the rest of the bridge. It just felt long overdue.

We got into SF right around noon and took about an hour to walk to the end and back. The weather was nice, visibility was great and the wind was gentle. I came across some stats/facts about the bridge in the parking lot after our walk. The most interesting to me was that the total amount of wire used for the bridge is roughly 80,000 miles.

Following our walk, we did another first- we drove to Tiburon just north of the bridge. I thought Tiburon was quite beautiful: just far enough away from the Bay Area to be quiet and slow, and yet had great views of almost all of SF, views of Mount Tamalpais, and in and of itself nice with bay waters coming right into it. We got some views of Angel Island as well but decided not to head there.

Instead we headed back to SF, had dinner at Plant Cafe and returned home after walking quite a large chunk of the wharf past pier 39 for some caramel apples.

We got there on a an early Saturday afternoon, pulled up the car in the short parking area and went to explore. I thought it was quite nice and it reminded me of Twin Rocks at Rockaway Beach in Oregon. There were some surfers and quite a few beach-goers, but the water was too cold for me to fully enter.

We spent a little while there, then continued to Pink Godzilla, a nearby Japanese restaurant we’ve enjoyed over the years.

I left SF Saturday, September 17th and returned the following Saturday.

I arrived in the tiny Tallinn airport Sunday evening, took a cab and got into my spectacular Swissotel room in the heart of Tallinn. The view from my room was really beautiful. I could see Sadam Harbor; basically the southern part of the Gulf of Finland, part of the Baltic Sea. This was as far north latitude as I had ever traveled.

	My beautiful room	The view from my room
Tallinn		Old Town from my room

My coworker KC had left me a message to hook up with him. So I showered and we headed downstairs to the lobby to meet him. He had been to Tallinn before (on biz) and graciously and patiently showed me around the joint. We walked into Old Town while there was still a bit of daylight remaining. Instantly, I was reminded of Poland- Krakow in particular- in the layout and architecture of things.

Old Town. Reminded me very much of the streets leading to Old Town Krakow

Old Town main square

The amazing black bread!

We pulled into a pub called Hell Hunt. The European Basketball Championships were about to show on the big screen and prior to that we watched some English Premier League highlights, which was great with me. We each got a dish, but KC ordered what seemed to me to be weird looking black bread with a yogurt sauce on the side and a garlic bulb. I hesitated to try it, but once I did, I could not stop, it was amazing to me!

Midway through the basketball game I was starting to crash so tried making my way back to the hotel. As I got lost about 3/4 of the way there, I was thankfully fortunate enough to find a parked taxi car and asked the driver for walking directions. It was pretty easy to find my way back after that. I went to sleep and woke up fairly normally the next morning.

The office

After an early breakfast and a miscommunication with KC, I ended up getting to the office too early Monday morning. I did appreciate the 80s music videos playing at the front reception area, though, at the office while waiting for KC. KC and I met up and got me all set up and good to go. Eventually, Thierry (with whom I would spend much time during the week) showed up and I learned a lot from him.

In the evening KC and I went to a recommended French restaurant which was quite good. Afterwards KC showed me around Old Town some more as we walked for a good while.

There seemed to be some party going on in Old Town square Tuesday night
		Parliament building		Harju Gate below our feet

On Tuesday, Richard showed up from the UK office and spiced up our level of excitement for the next 3 days. There was good food, good fun and lots of drinking (well, I was watching as opposed to partaking…) through Thursday night with various local coworkers.

KC

Heading to dinner with the gang. They found it weird that I took this random picture. Can’t explain why I like it…

KC, Richard, Aleks, Avo and Thierry

KC, Marco and Richard

Friday morning both Richard and KC took off back to their respective destinations, so I was on my own. I ended up leaving the office a bit earlier in the afternoon to go explore more of Tallinn.

I ended up walking to Kadrioru Park, followed by Sadam Harbor, and just kinda got intentionally lost in downtown walking for miles and miles. Eventually, I settled into a small, nice Turkish restaurant and had dinner. From there went to the local market next door to my hotel for some dessert and checked in for the night.

This seemed very European to me	Kadrioru Park
	Office of the President	Couldn’t figure if this fat bird (Which I saw so many times, all over) was a crow or not
At Sadam Harbor looking towards Old Town

I woke up really early Saturday morning, headed to the airport, and arrived back in SF Saturday late evening.

It was a good trip both personally and professionally. I’m really glad I had a chance to see this part of Europe. Two things I wish would have been different- (1) Tobia coming with me, and (2) taking the ship that goes to Helsinki (2 hours each way; there was simply no time).

Atlas	Homer (?)	The Alexander Mosaic
	Caesar	Farnese Hercules

From there we walked to the Sansevero Chapel, where we saw the Veiled Christ marble statue. Not only was it one of the most precise pieces of marble art I’ve ever seen, it was actually really moving. Also saw Queirolo’s “Disillusion” which is the most magnificent piece I’ve ever seen in my life! The netting is so real looking it’s hard to imagine this was done in marble. I enjoyed reading more about it here.

After the chapel, we decided to go eat at Rick Steves’ recommended pizza place and also “Eat Pray Love” book mentioned Pizzeria Antica da Michele. We stood in line for 1:30 hours, took number before and just waited and waited with so many others. Finally sat down at table for 4. It was dirty, and two strangers sat beside us. Initially it was awkward for Tobia and I to sit next to random people, but then got to talking and had great time. Pizza was actually really good, especially the double mozzarella one. It is fair to say the double mozzarella cheese was the best pizza I’ve ever had (I think Tobia said the same thing).

The couple at our table invited us to coffee (after the meal), then took us around the city, showing us so many different piazzas, stores, and things. We continued walking around; they were gonna take us to the funicular station to send us off to the Castle Sant’ Elmo by ourselves. Eventually they decided to join us, so we all went to the castle together, got magnificent views of Napoli and the Gulf from above, took lots of pictures, then took funicular on the way down and walked to our hotel where we split off, said goodbye, but beforehand had exchanged emails/facebook/skype/phone number information.

		I couldn’t resist	Piazza Dante
			Laura and Francesco

We had an absolutely wonderful time with Francesco and Laura- totally impressed at how easy going they were, never feeling weird and getting along very well. I hope to see them again, but next time in San Francisco.

Mario entertaining the group

We showed up late for our group’s happy hour apperitif, where young Mario was playing guitar music for all of us. From there headed to dinner, but before took group picture. It started raining a bit initially, then really hard, so we ended up taking taxis to dinner. Great dinner: sat with Sarah and JoAnn, and Sylvia and Paul. Then said goodbye to almost everyone before coming back to hotel.

Sat around in hotel chatting with Nina in the lobby before wrapping up some things prior to turning in for the night.

This vehicle took all of our luggage up the hill in Sorrento

Capodimonte Museum

Then we pulled into town, said goodbye to our driver Maurizio, and walked to our hotel. Checked in our stuff, then headed off to lunch- ate with Karen and Ray (had excellent white bean spaghetti dish).

Went back to our room and slept for about an hour, then got up and went on an afternoon city orientation walk with our group. It was about 3.5 hour altogether and included dinner.

We saw Piazza Salvo, d’Acquisto [on a quick break, we went to Nina's recommended chocolate place and got some chocolates, plus Jordan almonds], Gesu (Gesu Nuovo Church, Church of Santa Chiara).

We continued on to Santa Dominico Maggiore. San Paolo Maggiore. Headed to dinner at local popular pizza place called Pizzeria di Matteo. Had mushroom pizza there and some of Tobia’s margherita. Sat in 4 big tables in small place. Pretty good, but not even best in this country. Napoli is the birth place of pizza (or so it is claimed) and they believe they have the best pizza not only in the country, but world.

Main center in Napoli		Almost identical to the one in Milan	Sort of the essence of Napoli here
	Gesu Nuovo Church	Church of Santa Chiara
Santa Dominico Maggiore

In addition to being known for pizza, Napoli is considered a poor, crime heavy city, which is dirty and crowded. I found it real, not hiding anything and not trying to appeal to anyone; authentic. Though the garbage situation is pretty bad in the city as it tends to just pile up in neglected mounds. It is very densely populated with very little space, and folks drive like mad, mad people.

After dinner we walked back to the hotel as a group. Most folks split back to hotel, but Tobia and I continued walking to the harbor, and ran into Molly and Steve, and we sat down at a cafe with them until after 10:30pm, enjoying conversation very much.

Then we turned in, interneted, and called it a night.

Most of our group headed out to the Sorrento harbor this morning to catch the boat to Capri Island. It started out partly cloudy and warm, so natually I wore my shorts, t-shirt and sock-less sandals.

Capri Island

About midway through our boat ride, the sun started coming out hard, so I stepped inside the boat where there was shade so as to avoid sunscreen or a burn. Well, about 10 minutes later, as we pulled into Capri Island, it was rainstorming heavily! We tried to huddle as a group in various areas of town, but inevitably we all got soaking wet (and I was still in my summer wear).

We hurried to take a funicular up the hill of town and in the process got even wetter. Up higher in town, it was raining so hard that we all scrambled in our own various directions with few instructions on where to go.

Tobia and I started walking in the direction of Villa Juvis where Emperor Tiberius kept one of his villas up at the top of the hill. There were few signs, and it rained exceedingly hard. So walking a bit, then hiding under some awning or natural shelters, we slowly made some progress. Eventually we decided we’d wait out the rain in a cafe- so stepped in for some cappucinos and dessert.

Afterwards, we made some pretty good progress for about 20 – 30 minutes uphill, periodically hiding from the rain when it got unbearable. What turned out to be about halfway there, we stopped at a small store and I bought a disposable slicker. It was the COOLEST THING!! It covered almost my whole body, provided a hood, which with my hat on top of it, helped a great deal. It also covered my travel pack on my back. Except that there was no rain, and instead I started breaking a sweat.

Well, eventually it started raining like crazy, hailstorming and thunderstorming, and then I really came to appreciate how great the suit was. For her part, Tobia was happily pacing us up hill, while altogether getting soaked with her small umbrella providing just a bit of relief.

Villa Juvis is atop a steep cliff

We got up to the top, bought two tix, then appreciated the amazing cliff views below, all the while rain dropping harder and harder. The rooms (ruins) in the villa were fairly well preserved, and were nice to walk around. The views everywhere up there were great, it’s no wonder the villa was built in that location.

Emperor Tiberius’ villa			Feeling slick in my slicker

After a while, we started walking down, the path down soaking wet, except that the clever Roman architecture from thousands of years ago was still effective, funneling the water ‘lanes’ to the right and left sides of the path, and the middle was totally walkable. We ran into Sarah and JoAnn shortly after our descent started.

The water effectively funnels to the two channels on the side of the road and it is safe to walk in the middle, despite hard rain

We made it back into town around 1:30pm or so, and had an extremely lovely and delicious lunch at Ristorante da Giorgio, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea well below us. It was still raining hard then, but at least we had shelter and were still on a high from our walk. We enjoyed a very long, leisurely lunch with good conversation, and eventually took the funicular to the bottom of the Island, then the boat back to Sorrento- our timing was random, but lucky as we didn’t have to wait for either mode of transportation.

Having gelato with the Walkers

Once back in Sorrento we walked to the gelato place where we saw the gelato making demo yesterday. We sat outside under the awning enjoying our desserts, when the Walkers: Scott, Elizabeth and Sarah showed up. We chatted and ate with them, then we walked back to our hotel to do laundry, rest and shower.

Entrance to Pompeii

We got there around 9:30, met up with our guide Guitano, and went on a fantastic tour of Pompeii! It turned out to be my favorite place in all of Italy.

I think we were there for about 4.5 hours. Pompeii is preserved because Mount Vesuvius errupted prior to 100 AD. Under the soil and rubble is an amazing glimpse into a Roman city, from about 2700 years ago, possibly longer.

It was amazing to see how water would have flowed from a mountain about 21 miles away with basic pressure principles into the city. The streets, and delineations of 2 way or 1 way and cross walks, as well as “dead ends” to stop ‘traffic’ prior to the city square/plaza where people could socialize… I could not believe how advanced they were, and how many of our basic city building fundamentals come from back then.

Street leading to town square	2-way street marked by 3 rocks, plus serves as a cross-walk		Mt. Vesuvius looms behind town square
End of street	Real body of person killed instantly by the volcanic erruption	Bath-house
Hot food brought out into these holes to be served in public	Major street. Bends so that when it rained the water would funnel to the sides and flow out through the side ‘gutters’		Water pipes sometimes ran just below ground

We saw a rich man’s home (would have had slaves, and those slaves had rooms, and right to worship whatever idols they wanted, as long as they worshiped the emperor too), a brothel, a bakery, Basilica, bath house, gym, average man’s house, ‘apartment building’, plaza and amphitheatre. Also saw Jupiter’s Temple. Absolutely amazing to think they were so “civilized” and, organized and practical creating very well managed cities.

Entrance to a rich man’s home	Inside this home	Mosaic of Alexander on the floor, probably close to the living room	Bakery
		Brothel	Brothel bed

We had a very rushed lunch, because after the group finished, 6 of us rushed to the amphitheatre, then rushed to get food and on to our meeting spot. We hopped on the 2pm train to Sorrento. It was packed and Tobia and I stood the entire time (30 minutes, 8 stops, roughly).

Amphitheatre

Lovely train to Sorrento

Once in Sorrento, we walked for a bit, then reached a gelato house, where we saw a gelato making demo. We got to taste the lemon/slightly orangey gelato… really fresh and delicious. Then had a chance to taste others, so had blackberry and pistacchio.

Gelato making demo

Looking across the Bay of Naples at Mt. Vesuvius from Sorrento

Men’s only club in Sorrento

We had an orientation walk across town (new and old) then checked into hotel. Exhausted from long day and heat, we relaxed a bit, interneted, and eventually headed to an early walk and dinner. Following dinner, walked around some more, went down to harbor and picked up some water at the market, and then came back to hotel lobby to internet, catch up on things before turning on for the night.

We walked to Positano harbor just in time to catch the “jet” boat to Amalfi at 11:20am. We got to Amalfi just before noon. Had lunch outdoors under umbrella then went into Amalfi Cathedral. We saw the Cloister of Paradise, Basilica of the Crucifix, the Crypt of Andrew and the Cathedral itself.

Leaving Positano for Amalfi	Amalfi		Amalfi Cathedral
			Mother-of-pearl cross

We got gelato on our way out, walked around, including the harbor edge, and then sat at a cafe in the shade drinking lemon ice tea until the 3pm boat came.

On the boat ride back we got great views of Amalfi and Positano as we got closer.

Coastline back towards Positano
The 3 islands said to represent the sirens	Positano

We got in around 3:40pm. Walked up to top to get the classic views of Positano. Then walked back to our hotel room, to clean up and wind down before heading down to the breakfast room to internet and catch up on the day while reading blogs and journaling.

My buddy Dona, and I. I’m sporting a tiny Canadian flag pin- she had just given me- on my hat.

We had a 7pm group dinner and afterwards went uphill for a short walk, where we got fantastic views/colors/pics of Positano from above. Then continued down to the beach, walking to the end where the last of the restaurants are, before turning back and returning to our room.

En route, we talked with our guide Nina about contemporary Italy. We talked politics, health care, government, differences between the cultures, Mama’s Boys “Mamone”, and how Americans view Italians and vice versa… interesting stuff.

At the Water Buffalo Farm we went on a tour, seeing the workers pinch smaller and smaller chunks of mozzarella cheese while showing the softness and richness of it. From there, we went to see the Water Buffaloes, and even saw how they get robo-auto-milked, whenever they want. It’s all clean, organic and impressive, the animals are treated very well- we got to see all the steps involved in the animals’ lives, including a massage brush they’re allowed to use.

Vannulo Water Buffalo Farm		Not a bad existence
Milking machine	After giving milk the Water Buffalo are free to eat

After this we got to sit down for a fantastic lunch consisting of all water buffalo based milk: riccota cheese, mozzarella cheese, excellent olive/anchovie bread, greens salad, and divine cherry tomato salad. For dessert, banana flavored yogurt, then either a choice of gelato or cappucino. All really great!

Riccota cheese (first time I ever enjoyed that)

The triangular mozzarella pieces were excellent

More food

Even more food

From there, continued down the road for 5 minutes to get to Paestum. Some of the best preserved Greek ruins can be found there. We saw 3 well preserved temples there. At the museum, saw slabs from tombstones from roughly 6th century bc. In particular was a diver image on tomb, looking like he’s jumping off the columns of the temple.

Paestum
		Museum; much of the art focused on various battles and killings
Face carved into rock	Tomb of the Diver, probably the most well known piece in this museum

After that, drove passed Battipaglia and Salerno, which overlooked the Mediterranean, big port city, from above. Salerno is just before the Amalfi Coast. Due to driving restrictions and only 1 lane in each direction, we had to drive around, and curve back the long way into Positano. Because of that, we were able to see the Bay of Naples in addition to Mount Vesuvius- the view from the bus was spectacular. We also passed Seiano, beautiful views of water and towns far away and below.

Bay of Naples and Mt. Vesuvius

The 3 Islands, said to represent the remains of the three sirens who tried to tempt Ulysses

Saw Li Galli Islands just prior to Positano. 3 islands, supposedly as a result of sirens trying to temp Ulysses on his way back home on sea. Presumably these 3 sirens tried to tempt Ulysses, but failed, so they died and became those 3 islands. Beautiful.

We got off the bus a few miles before Positano, as it was too large and not legal to drive, and got in a smaller bus (2 actually, div’d group to 2). Got in after 6pm, did some laundry, took lots of pics from nice view but tiny balcony. From there 7:15pm meeting with group, walked down to the beach, oriented and figured out where to get tix for possible activities tomorrow.

Positano

Lovely roof-topped restaurant where Tobia and I had a great dinner

After that walked up the only street in Positano up the hill about 20 minutes and had most charming, delicious, dinner just the two of us. “Il Capitano”. After that, came back to our room around 11pm, went to lobby to internet and catch up on the day before shutting down for the night.

We walked into a cave church, saw the old town (completely unchanged) and the new town (where we’re staying).

Sassi	Mini Sassi; a father and son built this… really impressive
			Church
Common family living situation		Main town square

Had gelato towards the end. Afterwards had lunch on a terrace overlooking the valley and the Sassi. From there went to the National Archaeological Museum in town, then to the Carlo Levi Museum.

Walked back to the room to wind down before the 6:15pm buddy meetup meeting, to be followed by the 8:45pm EUFA finals match.

Had siesta after taking a shower, then went down for buddy meetup.

Bar where we watched Barcelona win the EUFA cup 3-1 vs Manchester United

Met Dorothy, owner of the hotel we’re at. Chatted with her for a while, then did buddy introductions.

From there, went with Jerry+Barbara, and Jeff to watch the game (Barcelona vs Manechester United). Could not find bar, even after asking about 10 people for location, so watched at another bar. It was funny to stand there in the middle of the street and follow people’s hand gestures to try to guess and understand what they were saying as far as finding the actual bar. What was even funnier was how 4 friends might each point in a different direction then proceed to argue with each other, and then with me. I did really appreciate their good intentions though.

We had dinner while watching the game and afterwards walked back to the hotel to sleep.