"A mind that is stretched by a new experience can never go back to its old dimensions."     - Oliver Wendell Holmes, Jr.

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Category: Point Conception Lighthouse

Jalama Beach (January 23rd)

We relied on Tobia’s cellphone to wake us up Wednesday morning. We had a quick breakfast at our Inn and figured we’d head out in hopes of meeting the Coast Guard. David told me that we would meet at the Jalama Beach Store at 10am.

Driving conditions out to Jalama Beach were really bad. Parts of the road were completely flooded and others just rough. It took us almost an hour to drive out there, twice as long as expected. We pulled into a completely empty Jalama Beach Store area (even the store was closed), and parked the car at our meeting spot. To say it was raining hard would be an understatement. Our car fogged up within about a minute of our turning it off. It was just a few minutes after 9:30am when we sat back and waited anxiously.

Less than 5 minutes later, to my excitement, two cars were pulling in. The first was a sedan and the other an SUV. Through the fog I could see the license plate on the SUV, and it said “Government”. Ecstatically, I hopped right out of the car and walked towards the two cars. A middle aged couple emerged out of their car and we quickly chatted each other up, making sure we were both headed to Point Conception Lighthouse.

The other car passengers took a couple minutes to get out. When they did, I knew we’d see Point Conception- two Coast Guard uniformed gentlemen emerged and we quickly chatted them up too.

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The locked gate, keeping people off Cojo Ranch (last sold in January 2007 for $135 million).

We waited for the others to show up and eventually after discussing the ground rules again, all us guests hopped in Brian’s (an oceanographer from Cal Poly who had a monstrous van, courtesy of the university) van, and followed the Coast Guard to Cojo Ranch, a few minutes away.

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This was one of the smaller pot holes in the road rising up to the lighthouse.

We pulled up to Cojo Ranch and the Coast Guard captain opened the gate for us.

We drove for about 25 minutes, the end of which constituted some atrocious pot holes in the road. I was surprised our Cal Poly van (with 7 of us inside) could make it up the heavy slope with the horrid road and rain.

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Getting out of the car, staring over the wall, we saw Point Conception Lighthouse for the first time.

As soon as we stopped, I immediately hopped out and peered over the short wall separating us from a roughly 200 foot fall down the hill to the lighthouse. It was breathtaking and made me shake nervously. On top of it all, the fog horn went off every 5 or so seconds, breaking the silence, almost as if ringing in the next act at a play. I don’t know if it was just the anticipation of finally being here that overtook me, or the beauty, or both, but I was not be able to slow down for the next 2 hours we would spend there.

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At the bottom of the steep rocky hill is the lighthouse.
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The Coast Guard guys had work to do.

We descended just over 150 steps down to the lighthouse, far from any form of civilization. There were a few bluffs extending out from the main lighthouse area, and they made for some beautiful views of the lighthouse. We also got to climb up into the lense room. It rained hard the entire time we were there, but it didn’t slow any of us down from appreciating things just the same. In fact, the gray rainy skies seemed to be the perfect background for this day and location. The air was cool and clear.

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I had to get a picture with the lighthouse in the soaking rain.
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View to the South East.
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A different angle of the lighthouse.
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Another angle.
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Yet another angle, I wanted it all!
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One of my favorite pictures of this lighthouse. I love the unique rock here and seeing the lighthouse on top of it. Waves crashing right below.
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Looking up from below.
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If I didn’t know any better, I’d say that was my dad in the picture, except he’s a bit taller.
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More of that unique, rugged rock to the North West.
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Didn’t want to leave any angle out. Don’t know if I’ll ever get to see this beauty again.
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Another really nice one. We had to inch really close to the end of the bluff to get this one.
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One last angle and picture of the lighthouse as the last Coast Guard officer finishes up.
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Tobia and Arnon

After the Coast Guard finished their maintenance, we climbed back up the stairs from the lighthouse and ultimately headed back to the Jalama Beach store where all 7 of us had lunch together before parting our own ways.

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The main street in Solvang, not too far from Point Conception.

One of the couples on the trip suggested we stop at Solvang before returning home. We ended up at a nice café in Solvang, stayed for a little while, and finally made the 4.5 hour drive back north to get back home. It rained through all of Central California, but eased up as we got closer to home.

All difficulties, anticipation and excitement aside, this was the most beautiful lighthouse terrain I have seen in all my trips. It was well worth the effort to get to Point Conception.

Heading to Lompoc (January 22nd)

I had done a fair bit of reading about getting access to see Point Conception Lighthouse in August of 2007. Being a lighthouse at the end of a private Cojo Ranch, (about 50 miles west of Santa Barbara) I was not allowed to simply drive out there and see it.

I started emailing the Southern California Coast Guard on a weekly basis for a couple months. In early October, (see my Anticipation post) the officer in charge at Long Beach called me up and after asking me why I wanted to see the lighthouse, among other questions, said it would be difficult to see it. He mentioned I’d have to call the ranch and ask for permission to be on their land, be prepared to possibly meet the Coast Guard at a moment’s notice (assuming they’d even let me come with them), and that there was no guarantee they’d go anytime soon nor remember to include me in their trips out there.

Even though he laid down some pretty intimidating, non-reassuring, and tough rules, I could sense that a part of him wanted to help me out and let me see this place.

I ultimately dug up what seemed like a proper number for Cojo Ranch and called them. I spoke to a nice lady who couldn’t help me, but redirected me to someone who she thought was more qualified to assist. I called the next number and the lady there was also helpful but didn’t have authority to facilitate. She did, however, give me the number of the VP of development who seemed to be the guy in charge. This gentleman called me about half an hour after I left him a phone message. I have never spoken to a more impatient or angry person in my life! The guy kept saying “sorry, can’t help you, I have to go now” and every time, just before hanging up on me abruptly, I’d quickly think of yet another thing to say to get him to hang on a second longer and give me some hope.

Ultimately he told me he didn’t care what I did, didn’t want to know about it, but emphasized I would not be allowed on the land by myself. Doing some earlier research and talking to the Coast Guard officer, I got the impression that even the Coast Guard is not very welcome at Cojo Ranch, but that they have jurisdiction only over the lighthouse area itself, which is at the end of the ranch. This means that they are barely allowed to drive through the property themselves to just maintain the lighthouse and leave. The land, of course, is gate-locked very well and it is impossible to get in without the keys.

I wrote to David, the Coast Guard officer, relaying exactly what the VP had said. I had very little hope at this point, as the VP had all but told me there was no way I could see the lighthouse.

Two days after my email to him, David replied that he was glad I contacted the ranch and that the next step in the process was to accompany the Coast Guard on their next site visit. He reminded me that I needed to be flexible and that this trip would probably happen in late January. He further gave me a list of rules to keep in mind when meeting them and visiting the ranch. Finally, he asked me to email him at the beginning of the new year to remind him to include me on their trip plans.

Sure enough, I emailed David on the 1st of the New Year. A couple days later he sent out the ground rules for the visit, allowed an extra guest to accompany me, and told me where to meet (rain or shine) on Wednesday, January 23 at 10am. We were to be 4 core visitors and our potential guest each.

After working a full day on Tuesday (22), but starting work at 7am, I left the office at 4pm and with Tobia, left for Lompoc at around 5pm. It was raining viciously hard the entire drive down south. I was worried the Coast Guard would stand us up (as I had read has happened before), in large part because it was expected to rain fairly hard the entire week down in the area. With all this in mind, we drove 4.5 hours south, past San Luis Obispo, cutting west to Lompoc in the hard rain and dark. It was a bit frightening to drive under those conditions.

We reached Lompoc just before 10pm and while watching TV in our hotel room, we had a power outage and were forced to go to sleep. This had all the makings of a sure failure coming the next day. The rain was much too hard, nearby places were beginning to flood, and I figured the Coast Guard didn’t owe us anything, certainly not at the cost of endangering their work efforts. On top of it all, I was beginning to doubt I had mapped out correct directions to our meeting spot.

So we went to sleep. With an extremely uneasy mind, I began pondering how I’d at least get a remote glimpse of the lighthouse if the Coast Guard didn’t show up tomorrow morning.

Anticipation

The other day I listened to my phone messages after work. “Dear Mr. Ziklik,” the message started, “I’m with the US Coast Guard and I’m calling regarding your repeated requests to visit Point Conception Lighthouse.” The anticipation of possibly getting to see a beautiful private lighthouse overwhelmed me with joy and I couldn’t even focus on the rest of the message.

Anticipating such exciting events gives me an enormous thrill. I sometimes wonder, though, if I enjoy the time leading up to the event more than the event itself; treasuring the feeling of excitement and nervousness of the unknown. And when the unknown materializes and becomes reality, imagination is not as relevant any longer… and of course, anticipation all gone.

I’ve been interested in this concept of anticipating versus experiencing for a long time. Fortunately I was recently lucky enough to find a great book which addresses the question of: why we spend so much time and effort planning for our futures (to make them as good as possible) and yet we always find out that our tomorrow never turns out as we had imagined.

The book is called Stumbling on Happiness (by Daniel Gilbert) and I believe it will help me further explore these intriguing ideas.