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Category: Central Eastern Europe

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 1, June 19th, 2010

This year we decided to take an international trip to Central Eastern Europe. Our initial plan involved spending 17 days in Italy, but following my Polish grandmother’s passing away in January, and our friends’ wedding in May (which was at the same time as the tentatively planned trip), we decided it would be more appropriate to head further east in Europe and leave closer to summer time.

In preparation for the trip, Tobia packed us extremely light- two carry on backpacks for the 18 days of Europe, followed by 3 full days in Israel. For my part, I had my head shaved to see what it’s like to be completely bald.

We flew out of SFO on Friday, June 18th, early in the afternoon, and reached Prague early in the afternoon on Saturday.

The first thing in Prague that stood out to me was that everything seemed naturally green. It was fairly cool temperature wise, and it looked like it could rain at any moment.

There were plenty of taxis outside the airport, and we ended up taking one out to our hotel in the heart of downtown Old City Prague. The hotel location was absolutely perfect for walking and exploration. We were a 5-10 minute walk from the Vltava River that runs through a part of the old town.

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Welcome to Prague drink; I still don’t know what it was.
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At Vltava River.
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On Charles Bridge.
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From the other side, looking back at Charles Bridge.
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Prague Castle in the distance.
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I liked the old city streets and architecture.
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Tyn Church in the town square.
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Enjoying live World Cup action (Ghana-Australia) on the big screen in town square.

After settling in pretty quickly, we stepped outside for some food and got a couple of free crazy hard drinks at the restaurant. We enjoyed our meal and went exploring some of the old architecture, including churches, bridges and old homes in the old town. We even managed to cross old town square and watched some World Cup action before crashing back in the room really hard due to jet-lag in the mid-afternoon.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 2, June 20th, 2010

The next day we woke up naturally at 5am and had to pass some time until the 7:30 breakfast. Following breakfast we set out to explore the rest of the old town we didn’t see yesterday, though we left out most places we knew we would see with our group.

Walking along the river again, we saw Charles Bridge followed by the National Theater. We continued walking for a while longer, passing by Henry’s Bell Tower, King Winceslas’ Square and the Powder Tower. We ended our 3.5 hour walk at town square and went up to the top of the Astronomical Clock Tower. There were wonderful views of Prague from up there.

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Charles Monument.
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National Theater.
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Old Town. New architecture (on left) mixed in with the old.
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King Winceslas Square.
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Henry’s Bell Tower.
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Powder Tower.
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At the top of the Astronomical Clock Tower, looking at Tyn Church and Powder Tower (off to the right).
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More of Prague from above. In the distance- Prague Castle.
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Sweet buns.

Town square was alive and buzzing when we came back down from the tower. We stopped at one of the booths there for some tasty, sugary bun treats. We watched while they made those. After that we had some outdoor lunch at one of the restaurants in the square.

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Betlem Chapel. Jan Hus preached here.

We decided to visit Betlem Chapel to see where Jan Hus- famous for having been burnt at the stake for what the Catholic Church considered heretical views- used to preach. There was also a statue memorial in town square of him.

After the chapel, we started fading out and turned in for an afternoon nap. An alarm woke us up to head downstairs to our hotel’s cellar where we met up with our guide Peter, and 26 other folks that would be in the tour with us for the next 17 days.

Peter later led us down the street to an excellent restaurant for our group welcome dinner. The food was great, and we got to know some of the folks on our tour. We had a good short walk after dinner, then people split off. I ended up watching Brazil-Ivory Coast on the big screen in town square, and a while later we turned in for the night.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 3, June 21st, 2010

We started the day off on a guided tour of the old town with our local guide Marketa. We walked the Charles Bridge as a group, passed by the Mayor’s hall and explored the old town square. The mix of different types of architecture on our walk (Baroque, Rococo and Gothic styles) was nice to see.

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The Astronomical Clock.
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St. James Church. A man’s (who, according to legend, was trying to steal the statues and lost his hand) hanging hand was at this Church.
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The Velvet Reveloution leader spoke from this balcony.

Along the way we also saw the Astronomical Clock from up close. There was also St. James Church, with a rather troubling artifact of a hand of a man hanging from one of the walls. As we walked towards Wenceslas Square afterwards, we discussed the Velvet Revolution- the non-violent revolution in Czechoslovakia that brought back democracy to the people after communist rule.

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800 year old market.

The group split off around the early afternoon to get lunch. Tobia and I went to a small restaurant not too far from the 800 year old market to grab an Italian lunch. We were still a bit tired, so checked back into our room to rest for a little while afterwards.

Not much later, we met up with Martin, our tour guide for the afternoon. He took us through the Jewish Quarters to see the cemetery as well as some Synagogues. Along the way, we saw Franz Kafka’s birth place. The first Synagogue we entered was Pinkas Synagogue, it had the names of all Czech Jews that perished in the holocaust painted on its walls. Following that we saw the Jewish Cemetery. We also saw the Spanish Synagogue whose interior was quite bright and it seemed very precisely built and decorated.

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Kafka was born here, right around the Jewish Quarter.
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Jewish Quarter.
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Maisel Synagogue.
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Pinkas Synagogue.
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Old Jewish Cemetery.
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Spanish Synagogue.
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Statue of Saint John being thrown off the Charles Bridge. He was killed for not divulging the Queen’s confessions to the King.
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I’ve always wanted to do this.

After the tour was over, we tried going to St. Agnes Monastery, but it was closed so we could only see it from the outside. Walking through town, eventually we decided to eat dinner at the same place as our welcome group dinner the previous night.




Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 4, June 22nd, 2010

We took tram #22 with the group to get to the Prague Castle area. There we met our tour guide, Sharka. She led us into Prague Castle. The castle was spectacular. On the grounds was Saint Vitus Church, probably the most impressive church I’ve ever seen. It was majestic- the attention to detail everywhere, especially with the stained glass was a marvel.

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St. Vitus.
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Inside St. Vitus.
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Stained Glass St. Vitus.
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Inside front side St. Vitus.
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Prague Castle.
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Communist leader gave speeches here.
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Prague Castle.
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Prague Castle.
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Defenstration Palace Hall. Defenestration actually happened here. This one’s for you, DM.

We also had a chance to see the Palace Hall. I wish I could remember more about it, but my single track mind got carried away with the concept of defenestration that happened out of one of the palace windows there. Ever since mid high school, my buddy DM and I have been talking about defenestrating each other from the CS room windows.

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St. George’s Church.
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St. George’s Church.

Following the Palace Hall we went into Saint George’s Church. It had real frescos and is famous for the lady in the scarf- Wenceslas’ grandmother who was murdered there, in a way that would have prevented here from being a saint.

At noon we saw the changing of the guard.

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Tobia and I.
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Archbishop’s palace.
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You will speak when I say you can speak.
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Changing of the Guard.
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Czerny.
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Monastery.

Continuing up the hill, afterwards, we reached Saint Norbert Monastery. We followed this with lunch with the group; at the restaurant they served “holy beer”.

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Loretta.
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Bearded Female Saint.

Most of the folks split off after lunch. Tobia and I headed to Loretta Church. I believe it is most famous for the bearded lady saint. I think the story goes along the lines of the lady not wanting to marry the a pagan king she was forced to be with, and overnight she grew a beard to seem less attractive. Needless to say, the king didn’t want to marry her with her beard. The sad ending to this story is that her father ultimately crucified her.

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St. Nicholas.
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St. Nicholas.
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Jesus the infant.

Afterwards we continued on to Saint Nicholas Church. The old church is famous for its ornateness. Finally, to cap off our church visits, we went to Jesus the infant Church.

At the end of this, Tobia and I decided to walk through Petrin Park, uphill to the base of the Petrin Tower, and we ultimately climbed all the way to the top. The views of Prague from the top of this tower were magnificent. This was my favorite experience in Prague.

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Petrin Tower.
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Petrin Tower.
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Petrin Tower.
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Petrin Tower.
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Entrance to Charles Bridge.

We rewarded ourselves with dessert and coffee after our tough climb up the hill and stairs. We then had dinner and turned in for the night.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 5, June 23rd, 2010

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Countryside flowers.

We woke up early (6am) and got breakfast in order to hit the road with the whole group by 8am. We headed east to the Beskydy Mountains in eastern Czech Republic. We had a rest stop around 10:30am, shortly after passing Brno, to stretch and grab some snacks.

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Stramberk.
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Stramberk Town Square.

Eventually we got into the small moutainside town of Stramberk around 1pm. We had a pizza lunch there with 5 of our group mates. The food was good and we had nice conversation getting to know each other.

There was a tower in Stramberk, and together with a few of the group mates, we climbed up to the top. The views of the valley were great from above.

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Stramberk view from above.
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Stramberk view from above.
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Stramberk atop the tower.
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Stramberk local delicacy: ginger bread ears.

In Stramberk, apparently, the local delicacy is a ginger bread ear cookie. Coming back down from the tower, I inhaled two at a dessert place, and they were really good.

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Pustevny.
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Our hotel for the night, Pustevny.

Following this stop, we continued on to Pustevny. We arrived around 3:30pm. Pustevny was a lovely town, up in the mountains, in the eastern part of the country. It is a ski resort destination in the winters. There was a nice mountain trail leading to a church with nice valley views along the way. I embarked on the trip with Marie and Bill and Gerry joined us for the walk. The church looked like it was built in Japanese style. Altogether, the walk took 2 hours.

Upon returning, folks informed us that the US and England had won their games and were advancing in the World Cup. That was good news to my ears.

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Lovely dinner setting, Pustevny.
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Post dinner folk dancing, Pustevny.

Later in the evening we headed out to a group dinner. We sat on wooden benches in front of large wooden tables, with a large fireplace in the middle of the room that kept us warm. It was exactly the sort of setting I picture when thinking of a dinner in a ski resort town. The food was great. Following our main course, the locals performed some folk dances along with music for us. At some point dessert came out, then I remember being pulled in to dance with one of the locals. After the dancing we wrapped up for the night and turned in.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 6, June 24th, 2010

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Hacky sacking in Poland

We left Pustevny early in the morning headed to Poland. Eastern Czech Republic was fairly close to Southern Poland, a little over an hour away by bus. After a brief stop at a gas station in Poland, we continued on to Pszczyna. Town square was pretty nice, we also had a chance to get some zloty (roughly 3 to a dollar). There was a quiet park behind the town Lutheran Church (uncommon; Poles are an overwhelmingly large majority Catholic) and castle, and we walked that for about 30 minutes. Together with Marjorie and Jane we walked to the bison farm that is well known right near the town, but ultimately didn’t have enough time to go in.

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Pszczyna Castle, walking in the park
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Pszczyna Town Square

After our brief excursion we met up with the rest of the group for lunch together. Lunch was nice and simple, and it was a good thing too, because having walked all the way back to the bus, Dave forgot his backpack at the restaurant and I ran like a mad man to get it back for him. Out of breath back on the bus, a little later, I was trying to calm down in preparation for our next stop: the Polish town of Oswiecim, otherwise known as Auschwitz.

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Arriving at Auschwitz
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Entering Auschwitz. ‘Work shall set you free’ sign above

We arrived at Auschwitz in the mid-afternoon. Matching the somber mood, the skies were gray and it was raining reasonably hard. It almost felt only right- that I should visit this concentration camp that my Hungarian Grandmother was forced into, in 1944- under these conditions. I couldn’t stop thinking that if it was that cold and rainy right at the beginning of Summer there, that Winter must have been hell. And even worse with little food and hard labor. As an aside, interestingly, while at Auschwitz, I got mistaken for being Polish a few times (this would later happen to me in Krakow, too). At the entrance to Auschwitz was a sign in German: “Work shall set you free”. It hung there as a sad reminder to all that happened there back in WWII.

Auschwitz was a very depressing place. Even some 65 years later, the place was very heavy and sad. First we went to Camp I. Most of the prisoners there were Poles, political prisoners, Jehovah’s witnesses, Romas and Catholics. We saw cellars were people were thrown in and starved to death in very vicious, horrible conditions. We also saw the Death Wall at Auschwitz, between blocks 10 and 11, yet another difficult site- a place where people were lined up and shot. We also walked into a crematorium which was very eerie.

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Walking in Auschwitz. Rain, gloom.
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Auschwitz Death Wall
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Auschwitz barbed wire
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Auschwitz crematorium
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Birkenau from outside

Walking inside some of the old buildings, we saw piles and piles of hair, brushes, shoes, and pots and pans that the Jewish and other inmates were forced to leave behind. It was almost too much to see. I spent much time trying to figure out if my Grandmother had been to Camp I, but eventually, in moving on to Camp II, I realized she was brought in by train from Hungary to Camp II (Birkenau). The train tracks led all the way into the camp, where back in the day at the ramp, Nazi SS forces sent people into one of two lines. One line meant straight to the crematorium, the other sent a person into tough labor. Apparently calming, classical music was played by some of the Jewish inmates to keep things relaxed and by extension, more under control with less panic. So disturbing.

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Birkenau ‘bathrooms’
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Birkenau living conditions
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Birkenau, enormous camp. Train tracks leading in
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Train tracks running into Birkenau camp
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Sorting probably happened around here
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Auschwitz – Birkenau
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Freight car
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Commemoration

As I would learn from my Grandmother a couple weeks later while visiting Israel, the history, pictures and preserved barracks were exactly accurate with what she described to me in her journal following her time in Birkenau. In Birkenau, the bathrooms were effectively a long block with cement benches spanning the length, and holes pretty close to one another for very quick bathroom breaks. It was very degrading. We also saw the bunk beds the inmates slept in, often times with multiple people to a bed. It was really difficult to see this.

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I’m watching and listening to the service

Walking around Birkenau, we saw the destroyed remains of crematoriums. It was said that the only way to leave Birkenau was through the chimney of the crematorium; well, my grandmother likely lost almost her entire family in those crematoriums. At the end of Birkenau, we came across a service. There were a couple hundred Israelis there, commemorating stories of their families from the Holocaust. I stood and listened for a while, emotionally moved to an inability to walk away, as they recounted their families’ stories in Hebrew.

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Emotionally spent, walking out

Tobia and I were a bit late to the bus, having stayed back to listen to this service. Everyone on the bus was more than gracious and understanding as they could tell I wanted to experience that.

As our bus drove away, I looked back at Auschwitz in all of its depressing aura, and it felt right to have visited this place. Tobia later put some of that feeling into words, saying that in a sense it was the ultimate revenge against the Nazis that I should be alive and be able to go in and out of Auschwitz as I please all these years later. On top of that, it felt right to do this out of respect for my Grandmother.

I ended up eating about 12 caramel candies on route to Krakow, our next stop. We had to battle rain and rush hour to get into our hotel in Krakow, in the old downtown. We got there late in the evening.

Shortly after checking in, we had (for me) a much needed group dinner together. The mood was heavy after an emotionally draining day, but the food was great and our conversation was wonderful. After dinner, I took a shower and crashed really hard for the night.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 7, June 25th, 2010

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Our hotel in Krakow.
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Typical street in old downtown.

We started out the day at 9am with a walking tour of Krakow. Our tour guide, Philip, led us initially to the barbican (original city gate/wall), leading into Krakow’s old town. From there, it was on to St. Mary’s Church in the heart of town square. It looked quite impressive from the outside. We continued on to the town hall tower, saw the planty (3km flattened wall around old town), and eventually continued to the Jagiellonian University.

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St. Mary’s Church in the old town square.
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St. Mary’s Church in the old town square.
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View of the other side of old town square.
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Jagiellonian University. One of the notable folks associated with this University is Nicolaus Copernicus.

We had a chance to see the Archbishop mansion, where Pope John Paul II lived while in Poland.

Afterwards, we went on to Wawel Castle and Cathedral. It was quite a beautiful area with enormous architectural structures rising up from the Wawel grounds.

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Pope John Paul II used to speak from this balcony.
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Old building across the street from Wawel Castle.
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Wawel Castle grounds.
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Wawel Cathedral.
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Wawel Cathedral.
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Nice, old church near Wawel Castle area.
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Another old church near Wawel Castle.
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Town Hall Tower, old town square.
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The inside of the Milk Bar.

Our morning tour ended at St. Mary’s Church right around lunchtime. I was determined to go to a Milk Bar for lunch. Milk Bars were invented by the communists in Poland around the mid-60s, as a place that offered cheap meals to people in the work force. They, at least historically, have been known to have no English on their menus, and the ladies who work there, don’t speak English either. I figured this would be a fun experience, not to mention, Marjorie had shared some amusing stories with me about her time in Poland back in the 70s, and what Milk Bars were like back then. One particular story from Marjorie that I found amusing was her going to a specific Milk Bar repeatedly and wanting a cheese and jam blintz. Using her (then) limited Polish, she’d ask for this blintz, only to consistently get rejected in Polish “no, you can’t have that”. It wasn’t just the rejection, but the stern, unfriendly, unsmiling and unwavering face that added to this “Soup Nazi”-like atomsphere. She’d either get a cheese one or a jam one, but never both. And she knew the lady understood what she wanted, but just wouldn’t give it to her. After some time, she apparently asked a native Polish speaker what to say, and seemingly, the thing to say was that she wanted a cheese blintz with jam *on the side*. When Marjorie said this, the lady, after weeks of frowning, smiled and gave her exactly what she’d been wanting for a long time. Having heard this story the previous evening, I was determined to go with Marjoie there for the full experience, not to mention, I figured she could bail us out as she could speak some Polish.

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Milk Bar menu… no English anywhere.
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Milk Bar food.

Well, the food at the Milk Bar was really good. And it was cheap. But in a sense, I thought the place had gone soft, because the ladies behind the counter actually spoke a little English, and there was no frowning or (as in Seinfeld’s episode of the Soup Nazi) an insistence on a strict manner of behavior while ordering.

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Inside St. Mary’s Church.
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Tobia at St. Mary’s Church.

Following the nice experience at the Milk Bar, Tobia and I continued on to St. Mary’s Church, and went inside. It rivaled St. Vitus Cathedral, not only in size, but stained glass windows. There was a nice, ornate wood-carved Gothic altarpiece that took its creator 12 years to put together. It is the largest Gothic sculpture in the world.

Later in the afternoon, we rented one of the touristy, motorized cars that goes to different places in the city with a guide. We visited Schindler’s Old Factory, which is now a WWII museum, capturing the Nazis taking over the country, and the effects on the Poles and Jews living there at the time. It was very moving, but also tremendously fascinating to learn so much. There were many artifacts there: journals, flags, pictures, books, tanks, helmets and lots of audio-visual media. There was even some computer simulation showing the Nazis advance through Poland and how the Krakovian army slowly diminished as they were pushed East. Schindler’s actual office was still preserved just as it was inside the museum, in it’s original location.

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Schindler’s Factory museum. Map showing timeline of Germans advancing and conquering Poland.
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Artifacts from WWII Poland.
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Memorial displaying survivors’ gratitude for Schindler.
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Schindler’s Factory museum.

After leaving the museum, we picked up a Polish mother and her two American kids (all from SD) to go back to main town square with us, splitting the cost of the car. It was nice to chat with her, as she was able to point out some things to us as we cruised at about 15MPH down city streets. Along the way, we saw some old Jewish Ghettos in Powstancow.

For dinner, we had less authentic Polish food, pizza, off of main square. We then walked around, had some coffee and dessert and just enjoyed the market and culture of the main town square area. I gave some coins to a tall skeleton “death”-man-dressed street performer in the main square. I then got to take a picture with him, and he usually does something funny; for me, he smacked me in the butt with his big reaper and laughed as I walked away. It was an amusing experience. We then turned in for the evening.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 8, June 26th, 2010

On Saturdays, it is possible to climb to the top St. Mary’s tower, look out over the city, and if there at the whole hour, there is a trumpeter that plays an hourly call in front of the visitors. I had a chance to do this right at 10am. Apparently, this hourly trumpet call happens year round.

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View from top of St. Mary’s Church. Town Hall Tower.
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Wawel Castle in background.
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Krakow from above.
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Cloth Hall (Sukiennice). Used to be international trading place.
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Snacking in town square. Barbara, Travis, Marie and I.

The views atop the tower were beautiful. There were lots of stairs to get up there, at some points dark and a little cramped, but definitely worth the effort to get up there.

After coming back down with a few of the group mates, we went to see the indoor market. We followed this up with coffee and snacks at the town square.

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Wieliczka Salt Mine Chapel.
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The Last Supper carved into the mine.

As a whole group we took our bus outside of Krakow to the Wieliczka Salt Mines. The mines went about 135 meters deep, or at least that’s how deep we ended up descending. There were so many stairs, and it was, at times, fairly claustrophobic in the mine. It was nice and cool inside, but a bit weird and disorienting to be in there with virtually no light. Inside the mine was a chapel with impressive carvings: the Last Supper, Pope John Paul II, scenes of Jesus’ life, and much more. That was definitely the highlight.

At the end of the tour, we took a really fast, but cramped and dark elevator back up top and were glad to be back above ground. As we had a short period of time for lunch, we ended up buying some food from a stand right outside the mines. We ate a baguette with cheese, mushrooms, and if I’m not mistaken ketchup and maybe mayo. Even though it looked unappetizing and I was planning on skipping lunch, after one bite I was hooked. Tobia and I eventually ended up sharing this wonderful Zapiekanki. Later in the day we saw many more stands with this food, which apparently is common among students because it’s a lot of food and it’s cheap.

After the mines, we had the option to either go to Kazimierz- the old Jewish Quarter- or to Schindler’s Factory Museum. As we had been to the museum already we opted to go to Kazimierz. A little less than half the group joined us.

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Oldest Synagogue in Poland. Kazimierz, just outside Krakow.
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Memorial to the 65,000 Krakow Jews killed by the Nazis.
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Preserved house from the old Jewish Ghetto in Kazimierz.
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Temple Synagogue where Rabbi urged Jews to assimilate to local society.
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Staircase famous for scene where woman hides from Nazis in ‘Schindler’s List’ movie.
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Kazimierz.

Kazimierz was pretty much a Jewish community district from the 1300s (King Kazimierz invited Jews from all over Europe to come to Poland, recognizing that by doing this, opportunities for all to thrive would be greater) until roughly WWII. The district housed the oldest Synagogue in Poland, as well as other Synagogues. There were homes with Mezuzahs, indicating Jewish homes, and we also saw the old Jewish Ghetto remains as well as a memorial to the 65,000 fallen Krakow Jews in the Holocaust.

Some other pieces of information I learned on tour of this district:

* In 1968, thirty-thousand Jews were shipped off to Israel or anywhere else, as they were not wanted in Poland.

* Many Jews, before and during and Holocaust changed their names and religions just to get by. It is therefore not known how many actual Jews there are today in Poland.

* It is assumed that there are 200 Jews, 97 of which are orthodox.

I have to believe the my Polish Grandmother would have come to Kazimierz in her life. She was from Czestochowa, Poland, roughly 2 hours away (with today’s cars) from the district. I also got to thinking that my Belarussian Grandfather as well as my Hungarian Grandmother probably had family roots in Poland, because at some point it was believed that there were 3.5 million Jews in Poland, primarily in the Krakow/Kazimierz area.

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Vistula River flowing through Krakow.
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Jews from the Ghettos were rounded up and shot here.

After the district, we headed to the museum to catch up with the rest of the group. Along the way, we walked across the Vistula River. After getting together with the rest of the group, we headed back to the hotel together.

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Great Italian dinner: Walker, Bob, Janet, Travis, Barbara, Tobia and I.

For dinner, we ended up going to an Italian restaurant off main square, recommended by our group mates and the Rick Steves guide book. 7 of us were there; we had a long, slow, really wonderful dinner. The Dixons, who were with us, shared one of the funniest stories I had ever heard, probably inappropriate to advertise here, but I will just say that their son (not Walker, though he’s cool too) is my hero. It involves a roadside emergency bathroom stop.

We got back to our room really late and we were exhausted after such a long day, but it was also an incredible day.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 9, June 27th, 2010

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Tatra Mountains, Poland. Lots of 3 story, three generation homes there.

The day started out in Poland with breakfast. We hit the bus at 8am headed to the Tatra Mountains, at the South of the country, close to Slovakia. On the drive we saw some snow capped mountains as well as 3 story homes that had three generations of family living together, each on a different story.

Not much later, we reached Slovakia. There were many Roma (Gypsies) people and villages along the way. In particular, in Rakusy, we saw a fairly large community of them. They have generally not integrated very much into the local societies where they reside, primarily in Central-Eastern Europe.

We pulled into Levoca to have a picnic lunch with the group. There was a nice town hall there where we ate. There was also a large church- St. James Church. There was a young Roma girl walking around us, asking for food. We gave her some. After eating, I started (naturally) hacky sacking, and ended up hacky sacking with the young girl for quite a while. We could not communicate at all, but the little tiny bag with beads enabled us to share a cool activity together. Before leaving, I gave her our leftover food which made her very happy.

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Levoca town square.
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St. James Church, Levoca.
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Group picnic lunch in Levoca town square.
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Hacky sacking with Roma girl.
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Hungarian country side.

As we had only spent half a day in Slovakia, I jotted down the names of some of the towns we passed by in our scenic, country-side drive through Slovakia. Harichovce, Spisska Nova Ves, Hnilec, and Dlha Ves. After the last village, we crossed into Hungary, crossing the border into Aggtelek. We had a bus stop just inside Hungary, and got to walk around a park with a mountain and some caves inside it.

Resuming the drive further south into Hungary, I saw signs here and there for the city of Miskolc in Hungary. My maternal Grandmother, the one who was in Auschwitz, grew up there until forced to leave in 1944 (she was 15 at the time). I had come to terms with the fact that it was probably going to be too difficult to go see her town and childhood home, on account of a lack of resources, language, and time to get there. I had already missed the opportunity to go to my other Grandmother’s city of Czestochowa, in Southern Poland while there. It seemed too difficult and there was too little time to do so. It was also far away.

But as we closed in on our final town for the day, Eger, Hungary, I saw a sign showing only 50km (~30 miles) to Miskolc. Fairly nervously I went to chat with our guide, Peter, who is Hungarian, about the possibilities of getting out there the next morning.

Well, after checking into our Eger hotel, I called my Grandmother in Israel over skype, chatted with her and my Mom, got all the address of her old home, worked with Peter and the front desk to set up a taxi, and was pretty certain things would work out tomorrow.

As a group we strolled through the town in the evening, on route to our dinner destination. For dinner we had goulash as well as a variety of other dishes, along with paprika, of course. Some of us stuck around to watch the soccer game between Argentina and Mexico, but I didn’t want to stay up very late because I had an early start the next day heading to Miskolc.

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Eger, Hungary.
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Minaret in Eger.
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Town square, Eger.
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Statue of captain said to have defeated Turkish invasion.
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Minorite Church, Eger.
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Cathedral of Eger. One of the largest churches in Hungary.

Ultimately, our jet-setting day included breakfast in Poland, lunch in Slovakia and dinner in Hungary.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 10, June 28th, 2010

We woke up at 6:15am so we could get some breakfast and be ready for the taxi driver to head off to Miskolc by 8am. After Peter chatted with driver, we were off. The driver spoke a little bit of Russian, a little bit of German, and Hungarian. For my part, I could handle French, English and Hebrew. Needless to say, the lack of, shall I say, “intersection of languages” made hand gestures, weird facial expressions and a lot of guessing a necessity. It was quite an experience though.

We drove through hills and valleys, all green, on a twisty road for about an hour. We covered about 55 kms (34 miles). The drive reminded me of Highway 1 in NorCal right where the road starts at the North end in Leggett and curves towards Westport at the coast.

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Entering Miskolc.
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Lots of high rise buildings in Miskolc.

When we pulled into Miskolc, practically the entire city was undergoing construction and digging of city roads. This was all over the place. We struggled to find my Grandmother’s old neighborhood, taking wrong turns and ending up in closed off 1-way streets.

At one point I suggested to the driver (I’m not actually sure how I conveyed this to him), that we might consider just walking there, because we didn’t have too much time; we ultimately needed to join our group for lunch later in the day in a different city altogether.

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Park.
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Mid-town Miskolc.

Eventually, our driver pulled off near a park in Miskolc, spoke to an elderly gentleman for almost 10 minutes, then we resumed our search. Finally, after more confusion, we ended up at Mikes Kelemen Utca, Miskolc- my Grandmother’s old street.

We got out of the car and Tobia took many pictures of the house. It was quite large, clearly fairly old nowadays, but impressive. Our taxi driver kept ringing the bell at the gate to no avail. He must have literally rang the doorbell a hundred times, and we were even ready to leave, knowing we wouldn’t be able to enter. But after maybe 10 minutes, the current owner, a lady likely in her 50s or even early 60s came to the gate.

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Our taxi driver, current owner and I.

The driver chatted with her (she didn’t speak much English either) and eventually she turned to me and asked me “what is the family name?”. When I told her the name, you could see discomfort as well as recognition in her face. It’s not exactly clear how she and her older husband (who- if I can piece the broken communication together clearly- received the house, or maybe it was his parents that received the house) came to live in this house, but what was clear was that my Grandmother’s family was forced out of it and into the ghettos back in 1944. For this, I felt, she experienced a sense of guilt.

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Mikes Kelemen Utca, the street where my Grandmother grew up.
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My Grandmother’s childhood home.
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Me in front of Grandmother’s home.
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Side yard.
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Fountain in back yard (June 28th, 2010).
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Same fountain, 1944. My Grandmother’s family (she is the leftmost).

Still, it was nice of her to allow us to see the side and back yards, take some pictures, and appreciate that this was once my Grandmother’s family’s house.

We had just a little bit of time left after seeing the house, so the driver took us to mid-town Miskolc, where we walked around for 15 minutes, and even stopped by to eat at a bakery.

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Ice skating rink just outside Mikes Kelemen Utca.
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Mid-town Miskolc.
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Mid-town Miskolc.
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Mid-town Miskolc.
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Mid-town Miskolc.
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Group lunch at Jambor Vilmos Altalanos elementary school, Recsk, Kossuth.

From Miskolc, we headed back the same route we took, but continued past Eger to Recsk. There, the rest of our group was actually visiting a school and meeting the teachers and elementary school students. Unfortunately, we missed this part and came right for the start of lunch. We had a very long table and our entire group ate the cafeteria food, which was fantastic.

After lunch the kids had a recess break and we got to hang out with them. At a loss for language and words with them, I realized nothing brings people together like a hacky sack. I pulled it out and had a nice circle following right around me as we kicked around for a good while. The kids caught on really quickly and we had a great time. When recess ended, we said goodbye to them and took some pictures. That, too, was a really nice experience.

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Hacky sack group.
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Walker had lots of admirers.
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The hacky sackers and I.

Following lunch, we continued on to Egerszalok to a family owned winery. The country-side was beautiful over there and the whole wine tasting experience was so relaxing, so European feeling, absolutely full of life. The wine maker was celebrating his 60th birthday and there was a tremendous amount of drinking. In Napa Valley when wine tasting, you get small pours. Well, in Egerszalok they filled it to the level most restaurants offer you for a full glass, and there were about 6 rounds of drinking. Tony, the violinist accompanying our drinking, played some very nice music for us the entire time. After a couple of heavy drinking hours later, we continued on to Budapest.

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Family owned vineyard in Egerszalok.
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Beautiful country around Egerszalok.
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Wonderful, lively wine drinking afternoon with music in Egerszalok winery.
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My common football bond with Walker.

The bus ride to Budapest was really happy, just about everyone was in a drunken happy state. I was chatting with Walker, Tobia and Marie, and at some point Walker talked about why he doesn’t like Chuck Norris (Walker, Texas Ranger), which was understandable. He kept talking about how people made references and fun of him for this. But then he turned really serious and said, “the only man I hate more than Chuck Norris is Tom Brady”. Needless to say, that got an enormous laugh out of me (those that know me might remember my intensity/attitude during Tom Brady Super Bowls) and we were instantly what Anne of Green Gables would call “bosom buddies”.

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Pulling into Budapest. Dog or sheep eating watermelon having to obey street signs.
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Elizabeth Bridge above the Danube in Budapest.

About 2 loud and happy hours later, we reached magnificent Budapest in the evening, what I thought was the most beautiful place on the entire trip. We checked into the hotel, had some dinner at the cafe next door, and turned in for the night.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 11, June 29th, 2010

We woke up at 7:15am this morning. We had breakfast at the hotel, then headed off to withdraw some cash and get some water, as our part of Europe was starting to turn pretty hot.

Starting at 9am, we had a guided tour of Pest with a local guide, George. We saw the parliament building, lots of cafes, hero’s memorial city square, statue park, St. Stephen’s Basilica, a nice spa, and finally we ended up at the market. As there were so many things to see, we just passed by all these sights, with suggestions of what to see later. Pest was simply full of life and so many things to see and do.

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See and be seen cafe.
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Statue park on Pest side of Budapest.
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Statue park.
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Spa building.
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St. Stephen’s Basilica.
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St. Stephen’s Basilica.
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Parliament building.
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Market Square.

After lunch at the market, we went atop the Basilica with Marie. We walked around the top and took lots of pictures. From there we continued on to get some ice cream, then to a cafe, entered the Opera House, and ultimately ended up spending a lot of time at the House of Terror Museum. The last was a pretty tough place to visit, detailing nazi and communist dual occupation of Hungary. We saw and read about tremendous atrocities, on par with what was happening in the concentration camps.

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Inside St. Stephen’s Basilica.
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View of Buda atop St. Stephen’s Basilica.
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Castle on Buda side.
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Castle Palace on Buda side.
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View of Pest atop St. Stephen’s Basilica.
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Opera House.
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House of Terror Museum.
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House of Terror Museum basement, where attrocities were committed.
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Buda Castle from Danube River.
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Sailing the Danube. Elizabeth Bridge behind us.

Following this busy sight-seeing day we had dinner across the street from our hotel at a place called Bonnie and Clyde. They had really good thin crust pizza.

For the final act of the day, and probably the most exciting, we sailed the Danube on a big river boat as the sun was setting. There were lots of bugs around us, which was not pleasant, but aside from that, the experience was perfect. We saw lit up churches, castles and many businesses.

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Back of Parliament Building, Pest side.
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Freedom Bridge.
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Elizabeth Bridge.
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Buda Castle.
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Parliament Building.

Following the mini-cruise, we walked back to the hotel with the group and turned in for the night.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 12, June 30th, 2010

Today we covered the Buda side. Apparently, our bus had some mechanical problems and we had to use public transportation. Our guide, George, who also took us around Pest yesterday, gracefully negotiated this tricky situation for us by leading us in two underground subways followed by a bus to get us to Buda Castle.

We saw the Castle grounds, Gate and spectacular views of the Danube and Pest. While still under some construction, we were able to enter St. Matthias Church. It was pretty nice, and as usual, my eyes searched for, and found stained glass windows. After the church, and because we couldn’t get to Statue Park (on account of no bus), our guide gave us the money for the tickets we would have instead used up, and also took us to Fisherman’s Bastion. It was there that we had even better views of the Danube and Pest, I thought.

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Buda Castle Palace Grounds.
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Looking out at Pest from Buda Castle area.
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Parliament Building in Pest.
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Pest.
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Former Royal Palace.
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Castle Theater.
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Fisherman’s Bastion area.
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St. Matthias Church stained glass.
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Inside St. Matthias Church.
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St. Matthias Church.
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View of Pest from Fisherman’s Bastion.
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Chain Bridge. Lions at entrance, said to roar supposedly if honest woman crosses the bridge.

That was it for the day’s activities, we had the rest of the time to ourselves. We ended up taking the bus back to Pest and eventually had lunch in the market again. We walked around, had some dessert, then some more dessert in my case, and eventually went back to the hotel to rest up. We had become quite tired over the course of the trip, and I think Tobia, in particular, needed the rest. I did some reading, watched TV and surfed online on my netbook in the room for a while.

After the rest, we stepped out to the Italian restaurant practically next door to our hotel. Many folks in the group had recommended it, and I think even our guide book mentioned it. We both loved the food.

Following dinner, we walked across the Elizabeth Bridge with gelatos. We climbed up the St. Gellert Hill on the Buda side and had great views of Pest and even the Danube from up above.

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St. Gellert Statue on Buda side of Elizabeth Bridge.
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Looking down at the Elizabeth Bridge running across the Danube from St. Gellert Hill.
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Buda Castle complex.
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Nice view of the Danube.

Eventually we returned to the hotel, sitting in the restaurant with Marie, drinking cokes/lemonades and “interneting” until eventually going to sleep.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 13, July 1st, 2010

We left Hungary early this morning, headed South to Croatia. We spent about 30 minutes at the border crossing, all of us having had our passports examined.

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Lunch in Croatia.

Right upon entering Croatia, we pulled into a family owned restaurant to have a group lunch together. There was a big table laid out for us inside (food was self-serve), and even though there was an option to eat outdoors, it was too hot to entertain that idea.

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Our Group

After lunch, we took a group photo outside the restaurant yard, and continued on Westward in Croatia. We drove past Zagreb, the capital, but could only see lots of buildings and homes from a distance; we didn’t actually stop there.

In the town of Karlovac, we saw tanks and lots of bullet holes in buildings- in general just signs of the recent war that broke out in this area.

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Grand Slunj, Croatia.

Along the way, we also passed Grand Slunj, a place with lots of flowing rivers and waterfalls.

Finally, we reached Plitvice, around 6pm or so, after a long day on the road. We wound down in our hotel room for a bit. I ended up walking down to the lake in the area, with Marie, to get a bit of exercise in for the day, and also ended up dipping my legs in the lake.

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Dinner at Plitvice Hotel.

Shortly afterwards was a group dinner at the hotel restaurant. Conversation with Jill and Jane was very nice over dinner. Primarily, we chatted about travel, outdoor adventures, and seeing different things.

I recall going to shower, shave and wash my dirty shoes shortly after dinner. Then I came back out to the lobby, where the air flow was really pleasant, and I chatted with some folks, surfed the web and wrote my journal notes for the day.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 14, July 2nd, 2010

We started the day walking downhill from our hotel to an area where a trolley picked us up to go to Plitvice Lake Park. About 20 minutes later we reached the park. We hiked for about an hour, crossing small bridges, climbing and descending, all the while seeing some really impressive waterfalls. What I found unique about these falls was how they spread really wide- running around rocks and lots of moss- often splitting repeatedly en route to splashing down.

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Wide spreading falls.
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Many waterfalls from above.
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More falls.
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I liked the color of the water.
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More falls.
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More falls.
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My favorite fall. I like all the trees here.
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Nice view from above.

After this initial hour of hiking we had to take a boat to cross to the other part of the park. On the other side of the park we took a break to have some lunch. There were many options on the other side- lots of BBQs, ice creams, burgers, etc. Tobia and I shared a whole chicken and some fries, it was really good.

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Big waterfall.

From there, we continued on to the remainder of the lakes and falls, including the final “big waterfall”. Ultimately there were 16 lakes in the park, and I believe hundreds of falls.

Following the park, we continued further West towards the Adriatic Coast of Croatia. Along the way we passed some war torn towns, with quick rebuilding going on. One such place was Zaluznica. In the town of Podum, later, I saw a sign on the road indicating not to get off because there were still live mines there.

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First view of the Adriatic, Vratnik Pass.
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Town of Senj, right on the Adriatic.

Somewhat later, we drove through part of Velebit Mountain, the largest in Croatia. At Vratnik Pass we stopped the bus for a break, and were able to overlook the Adriatic from high above. Shortly after that we took another break at the town of Senj, right at sea level, for some ice tea and coffee. It was really hot and humid there, but was still a really nice stop.

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Ferry boat taking us and our bus to Rab Island.

After driving through miles of Croatian coastline, we eventually reached a port where a ferry took our bus, as well as many other cars and people to Rab Island. Once on Rab Island, we drove for a short while and checked into our hotel. But before I could bring myself to go upstairs, I got caught up watching the Brazil vs Netherlands World Cup match with Walker, dozens of locals, and some of the hotel staff. I couldn’t understand a word anyone was saying, but it was a lot of fun and the game was good.

We had a group dinner at 7:30pm at a wonderful restaurant in the heart of the island, on the 2nd floor of a small building, or maybe it was a house. There were tons of different, very good seafood dishes, and our conversation was very lively; we ended up staying there well past most of the folks in our group.

Following the long dinner, we went downstairs and sat at an outdoor bar with Barbara, Travis and Walker. In the middle of this loud, lively (and so full of cigarette smoke) atmosphere, we enjoyed the intense Uruguay vs Ghana World Cup match. We turned in pretty late, knowing that tomorrow had absolutely no schedule.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 15, July 3rd, 2010

We woke up late this morning, having turned off the alarm. We went downstairs to have breakfast and I ended up eating way too much good food.

Following breakfast, we walked around the island. I climbed to the top of St. Mary’s Church tower and had great views of most of the island. It was really hot and humid, but we continued exploring the island for a good while.

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View of Rab Island just outside our hotel.
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Town square.
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Looking down at one of the beaches.
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Looking out while dipping our feet at the beach.
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This is what the streets looked like.
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View of Island atop St. Mary’s Church tower.
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There was even a lighthouse.
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Nice perspective.
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Swimming in the Adriatic.
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My favorite spot on the Island. Below is the beach where I swam. Also the only place with noticeable wind.

Eventually, we had lunch with Marie, Travis and Barbara at Pizza Mare. The food was as good as advertised. It was so hot in the early afternoon that I decided I’d get my bathing suit and swim in the Adriatic Sea. We returned to the hotel and I sun-screen-ified all over and went to swim for a short while. The color of the water was really beautiful; various shades of blue and green all over. Entering the water was pretty painful with lots of sharp, small pebbles underneath. Once I realized this, I put my sandals on and was much more comfortable.

I recall later having two gelatos then walked around some more to check out the other beaches on the island.

World Cup wise, today was the big Argentina-Germany match. I met up with Walker to watch the game. Others from our group, as well as other spectators were together with us at the hotel lobby area to watch. After 2-0 Germany, and sitting with mostly German supporters, I had to leave the game and could not watch any longer. I went back upstairs to the room to calm down after being pretty wound up.

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Potluck dinner.

I tried to cool down in the hotel room while Tobia stepped out to get some food for the potluck we were going to have a little later on. Once more reasonable, I came downstairs and joined the group potluck dinner outside. It was really nice.

After the potluck we walked around some more, seeing the old town, its walls, and getting good views of the island at sunset. We actually watched sunset from the only place (my favorite on the island) that felt like it had any reasonable wind.

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Walking along city walls just before sunset.
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Just before sunset.
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I liked the courtyard and columns here.
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Sunset.

Finally, right before checking in for the night, I watched the last 20 minutes of the Spain vs Paraguay game, which were actually really good and intense. At the end of the match, I went upstairs to shower and sleep.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 16, July 4th, 2010

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Dramatic, rising cliffs, away from Rab Island.

We left Rab Island in Croatia early in the morning, before 8am, as a group. We had a ferry to catch back to mainland, and we were first in line by virtue of being at the port early.

We had a short rest stop at Novi Vinodolski back on mainland; we drank, stretched and drove on, towards Slovenia. En route, we passed by the city of Bakar, the first with industry near the North end of the Adriatic. There were lots of railways and refineries out there, a definite contrast to the mostly uninhabited, and fairly pristine rugged coastline in the area.

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Nice view from above Rijeka, Croatia.

We passed by Rijeka, and across the bay saw Opatija, a Baroque, rich town in the area. The views of both were quite nice from above the mountain range.

Shortly thereafter, we had a passport check on the bus, by a Slovenian Government worker, and we were allowed to enter Slovenia.

Once in Slovenia, we had a picnic lunch right next to the Skocjan Caves, which, a couple hours later, we entered on a group tour. The caves are believed to be about 2 million years old. We went about 150 meters (almost 500 feet) deep. The caves were magnificent. Unfortunately we were not allowed to take pictures inside, but I recall an enormous chamber in the “silent cave” portion of the cave system, made of limestone, algae, calcium caronbate, manganese and iron oxide. The colors on it were amaxing. It was 120m x 60m x 30m big. It definitely dominated that portion of the cave.

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Skocjan Caves, Slovenia.
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Waterfall near Skocjan Caves.

There were some waterfalls as well as a river (with a bridge, 100 or so meters above it) inside there. We saw a few bats, apparently there are 3000 different types living in there. Along with that, there are at least 80 known different species living in the cave. It is the biggest underground canyon in Europe, too.

After touring the inside of the cave, we were planning on walking back up to our starting point, but it rained too hard, all of a sudden, so we took the funicular back up to the top.

Back in the bus again, all of us a little wet, we started driving to the capital, Ljubljana. We saw the old town, St. Nicholas Church, with its ornate door full of art and history on the outside. We walked around town square and also made it out to the Dragon Bridge.

From there, it was off to the final destination of our European trip- Lake Bled in Slovenia. On the drive we saw the Julian Alps as well as hay racks, which are common in Slovenia.

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Ljubljana.
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Looking towards town square, Ljubljana.
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Ornate door leading into St. Nicholas Church.
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Inside St. Nicholas Church.
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More of Old Town.
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Dragon Bridge.
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Hacky sacking with Walker in town square.
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Our guide Peter, driver Anton and I.

Eventually we pulled into the amazing town of Bled. We said goodbye to our driver for the trip, Anton, who was from Slovenia, and was returning to his home town.

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Beautiful Lake Bled and Castle from hotel room.

Lake Bled was really picturesque, a perfect destination to end our trip. It had a great outdoor feeling to it, the air was really clean, and motor boats are not allowed in the lake. It was incredibly serene, full of color and absolutely incredible out there.

As it was evening when we got there, we went to dinner with Barbara, Travis and Marie. We had a wonderful, long, funny dinner. After dinner, we checked in, wound down, and enjoyed our room’s internet connection before going to sleep.

Central-Eastern Europe Trip, Day 17, July 5th, 2010

We started our morning off with a boating trip of Lake Bled. The group was split into two and there were two rowers, one for each boat. About 20 minutes later, we reached Bled Island and climbed the 99 stairs to the Church of Mary the Queen. There was a big bell inside the church, that has a story of a widow who used to live there, and some religious associations that come along with that.

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Boating Lake Bled.
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Bled Island.
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Boat we used to get to Bled Island.
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I liked the steep rock upon which the castle was built.
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Lake Bled specialty, Kremsnita.

After the church, we walked around the island for a while before heading back.

Once back on land, I was determined to have the local dessert speciality, the Kremsnita, or creme cake. It was incredibly good.

After this, I ended up going to eat at the recommended pizza restaurant with Marie. The pizza was great. From there, it was up the steep hill to Bled Castle, where the views were fantastic, not just looking down at the lake, but the entire surroundings.

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Looking at Bled Island from Bled Castle.
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Lake Bled from above.
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Looking towards the mountains, away from Lake Bled.
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Nice colored flowers around the lake.
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I really liked this angle of the lake, castle and mountains.

We walked down from the castle to the lake with Barbara and Travis, then walked around the entire lake before all going back to clean up before the farewell dinner.

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Marjorie, (Marie) and I.
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Walker, our token Godzilla, and the three scared ‘siblings’.

The farewell dinner was really good. It was both really happy, but also kinda sad to realize that the tour was coming to an end. We said goodbye to most of the people, but ended up going back to the Kremsnita cafe with about 10 of the folks on the tour for a final dessert (my second of the day) and some beers/wine and good stories.

It was an incredible and memorable trip, and we became good friends with some of the folks traveling with us. I hope to see some of these folks again in the future.

Israel, Day 18 of our trip, July 6th, 2010

Our tour officially over, we slept in late in our Lake Bled, Slovenia hotel. We went out for a late breakfast at 9:30. We ate alone, as virtually all of our group had already left Slovenia.

We returned to our room, interneting and wrapping/cleaning up until going downstairs to meet our taxi driver right around 11:30am.

The driver took us to Ljubljana airport and we got there by noon. It was a smaller airport than I expected, mostly servicing short flights not too far from Slovenia. Our airplane was a tiny, nauseating, loud, two propeller plane. It took 90 minutes to get to Prague.

From Prague we flew 3.5 hours to Tel Aviv. We arrived at Ben Gurion airport around 11pm and tried to rent a car, but failed on account of having no license. To make a long story short, we rented a car last year with only our passports, but policy had changed recently.

It was just as well we didn’t rent a car, saving money and also avoiding having to drive to the Tel Aviv hotel late at night while tired. Not to mention, my parents were in Tel Aviv too, and we knew we could always get rides from them if needed.

We took a taxi to our hotel, then I called my brother to let him know we had arrived and to make loose plans for tomorrow. We ended up walking the promenade (along the Mediterranean) to get some burekas, malawach, pizza and drinks. We sat on a bench eating and drinking, then finally turned in to shower and sleep.

Israel, Day 19 of our trip, July 7th, 2010

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Guy’s apartment.
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Great view of Haifa from our hotel suite.

We woke up with no alarm, pretty late, then we went to have an enormous breakfast downstairs at the hotel restaurant. Afterwards, I chatted with my brother and ultimately my parents picked us up and took us to Guy’s apartment. We all went to a cafe, then eventually drove North to Haifa.

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Family lunch at Abu Yussef.
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We couldn’t believe Guy finished his entire fish.

Lunch was at Abu Yussef, our favorite restaurant in Haifa. From there it was off to my grandparents house to hang out for a while.

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Chatting with my Grandpa.

My grandmother was ecstatic with the pictures of her childhood home and we got to talking about her family history. It turns out that her great, great, Grandfather came from Krakow, Poland. She came to know this because her Grandfather’s cousin left Poland through (then) Czechoslovakia, and with the help of the synagogue there, was able to find the name of her Hungarian family, and came to Budapest looking for my Grandmother’s family.

My Grandmother and I started translating her Holocaust journal. She actually wrote in Hebrew and started reading it to me. I would listen, translate quickly, and type into notepad files. I will be putting up her story after blogging about the rest of the trip.

While I translated intensely, Guy and Tobia spent the hours doing puzzles right beside us.

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Family dinner at ‘Ha Bank’.
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Tobia enjoying her favorite falafel.

For dinner, we met with my Uncle, Zvika and family up in Mercaz Ha Carmel in Haifa. We had a light dinner and chatted for a while. Then for the post dinner events, we went to Tobia’s favorite falafel joint in Haifa, very close by, and right next door, sat at a cafe to watch the Spain vs Germany World Cup semi-final game.

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Really intensely watching the Spain vs Germany World Cup semi-final game.
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Game over, Spain won 1-0.
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Ecstatic over the game result.
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Post game celebration at the bar.

Guy and I both, not only like Spain, but despise Germany, so the 1-0 win made for an incredibly happy mood for us. Right after the game, Guy, Tobia and I went to a bar to celebrate the victory.

Israel, Day 20 of our trip, July 8th, 2010

We woke up at 9:30am this morning in our Haifa hotel. We headed to breakfast with Guy, who had slept in our suite with us in next room. After breakfast we were all tired, and went to sleep around 11, all waking up around 2:30pm.

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One of the puzzles Tobia and Guy finished while I was translating my Grandmother’s Holocaust story.
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Sunset at Yotvata, Haifa.

After taking a taxi to my grandparents house, I started working seriously with my Grandmother to document her story. Most of it was from the journal she wrote years after the Holocaust. While we spent a few hours doing this, Guy and Tobia continued the puzzle obssession beside us. Eventually my parents appeared and gave us a ride to Yotvata, at the bottom of the Haifa hill, near the beach, where the 3 of us had dinner. Following dinner, we returned to my Grandparents’ house where I resumed translating Grandma’s story, finishing the last of the story orally, as no journal existed for the end of the story.

It was terribly sad and difficult to translate her story. We quite a few breaks during the process, as I felt bad making my Grandmother recall difficult and tragic times. It was also pretty late at night when we wrapped up.

We say goodnight to my Grandparents and took a taxi from their house to Mercaz Ha Carmel again. We went to a free internet cafe, ate, drank, surfed, and just hung out for a while.

Tobia was tired and turned in early; Guy and I went to hunt down some food for him. The two of us hung out a while longer and eventually turned in as well.

Israel, Day 21 of our trip, July 9th, 2010

We woke up at 8:30am this morning, with Guy again in the other room of our suite, and headed to breakfast. We met up with my parents at their hotel lobby just across and up the street from ours, at 10am. We all drove to my grandparents together.

We hung out with my Grandparents, then my cousin Lital and her son Ido came over to hang out as well. We all chatted, then I played soccer with a tennis ball with Ido.

Later on, we had to go back to Yotvata because we forgot our credit card there the previous evening at dinner. I picked up the card, then my parents dropped us off at the train station in Haifa, not too far away. We took the train to Tel Aviv. Just prior to getting on the train, my brother and I found out the news that LeBron James had signed with the Miami Heat, so that dominated our hour long train ride, while Tobia rested.

Back in Tel Aviv, we walked to a nearby taxi station and took a cab to my brother’s house to drop off our bags. We walked to Dizengoff street to have wonderful lunch at Hashdera 34. It was a nice, happening place with great food. From there it was back to Guy’s apartment, where we picked up our stuff, said goodbye, and took a taxi towards our Tel Aviv hotel.

There was a music festival along the promenade outside our hotel, blocking the nearby street, so the driver dropped us off about 15 minutes away from our room. We walked back, got some water along the way, and eventually checked in. We set up a taxi for tomorrow at 5am to the airport and arranged to get breakfast delivered to our room by 4:45am.

At this point in the trip we had been away for 3 weeks, and both Tobia and I were ready to return home after such a long, wonderful journey.

My Grandmother’s Holocaust story

While Tobia and I were in Haifa following our Eastern European trip, I had a chance to sit down with my Grandmother, now close to 82, and listen to, as well as write down, her story prior to, during and following the Holocaust. We spent parts of two days in her living room as she read from her journal, in Hebrew, and I quickly translated her words into English.

Everything below is my best attempt to translate and share her story; these are her words:

My Grandmother as a child (15) in the ghetto in Hungary

It was first in 1943 that we started hearing of the Nazis’ vicious acts in Hungary. Poles and Czechs who were looking for places to hide from the Nazis, started coming to Hungary. Though actually, the viciousness had already started a couple years prior. My Dad was taken to Russia for labor camp for 2 years. Dad was taken in 1942, and was released in 1944 after we paid the Nazis a lot of money.

Jews couldn’t study at the Universities. Germans Jews had their stores robbed and many Jews were tortured and killed.

Man always thinks that what happens to others won’t happen to him. Surely people were exaggerating. Jews couldn’t go to theaters, restaurants (Nuremberg Laws). Only those of “pure race” were allowed.

Unbeknownst to me, my parents dug a hole in our garden and hid most of their gold and silver in there. My dad was an optimist, and generally a flexible and reasonable man. He was good hearted and quiet. In his worst nightmares he couldn’t have imagined what was coming to us. As people were not allowed to employ Jewish workers, my Father had to let go his Jewish employees. He secretly paid them though, so they wouldn’t starve.

Every Jew had to sew on a yellow star whose dimensions were specified on their clothes. I had a 10cm x 10cm star sewn on. It was a shameful sign of inferiority. That’s how 3 of us ladies [my Grandmother and two friends] walked to a Christian school together. There was a nearby poor town whose quarters were set aside as the Jewish Ghetto.

We were exposed to the Gestapo as a rich Jewish family living out on our own in Miskolc. Then one day the Gestapo broke into our house and demanded that we leave in one hour. We were kicked out of the house where we had led a peaceful life. From a nearby store, we were given a little cart with two wheels. With a helper from the store, we put some belongings: beds, mattresses, blankets and clothes into our cart. Only 20 kilograms were allowed. We looked back at our beautiful villa, which my parents worked so hard and saved much money to afford. We were sad and depressed, my family pushing this cart away from our house and towards this ghetto. We were also embarrassed, we felt like we had just been run over. We walked and walked, with lots of other Jews, all embarrassed. Onlookers were very happy at our misery. We Jews had no voice.

With the initiative and help of the Hungarian police, all Jews were rounded up. In those days, thousands were bribing the police to get papers pretending that they’re Christian. Thousands tried to save their families and souls. We couldn’t do anything because my parents, at that time, were taken to jail. The reason was because they were rich. Authorities demanded to know where we hid our money. It wasn’t enough that they got the house, furniture, the store, the goods in there, they also wanted our money. They also wanted the little gold we had left. They were finally able to beat the secret of the location of the gold out of my parents after the Hungarian Gestapo kept at it.

I was put in jail for 3 or 4 days. My parents were there for at least a whole week. I was put there because my parents hid the money. I don’t know how we got out. Perhaps my parents paid a huge bribe. For some reason, I wasn’t miserable in jail.

[Here I asked my Grandmother about her parents. Her Dad was a journalist. He opened a clothes and shoes store for men and women. He studied at Berlin University. Her Mom didn't finish her studies because of World War I; she was studying languages. (My own Father, upon listening to our conversation, added that his side of the family had somewhat a similar level of education and background)].

As a girl, I didn’t understand the significance of what was going on. Even the food- the white beans- was good. After the days spent in jail, we were returned to the ghetto. My brother was in Budapest, he attempted to enroll at the University, but was not admitted. He was trying to become a mechanical engineer.

In each room in the ghetto, there were 8-10 beds. It was unbearably cramped. We were all right next to each other, many families. We stored everything in there. There was constant noise, and a small kitchen. My parents still had some money, so we didn’t starve. After a few weeks, we were sent to a brick factory. We slept in an open garden with no roof above us. This was May 1944. It was really cold. We slept on a mattress and still had few belongings. We dug up holes in the ground for our personal needs. Soldiers enjoyed watching us do our needs outdoors.

Despite my rich upbringing, I didn’t suffer. I walked around and talked to friends. I don’t remember if there was or was not enough food. Apparently it was not important, I didn’t eat much, I simply got by.

[Journal skips to December 12th, 1980]

It’s my 52nd birthday. All of a sudden, I remembered my 16th birthday, in 1944, the Winter in Guben, Germany. That year, Winter was very tough. Never in my life had I experienced a Winter so tough. At 5am we were already standing outside. [Something called Tsenapel, a way the inmates were counted]. They cut our hair and we were all freezing. My teeth were rattling I was so cold. There were tears in my eyes from so much suffering. I stood there in my summer dress, with a small, thin rain coat. My dress was light blue and short sleeved. It was also very dirty, I wore this for at least 3 months, as I had no other clothes. I was able to wash it every 3 months.

I wore wooden shoes, easily 3 or 4 sizes larger than my feet. We couldn’t walk bare footed in the cold of Winter. My shoes from Auschwitz were stolen. I never had socks. At 6am we were all out, my wooden shoes rattled like ringing bells.

About one hundred people did work. We took an hour to get to work, running. The Germans were also cold and they made us run by screaming at us. Fast, fast (schnell), keep running. They didn’t let up. I ran with my huge shoes, tears running from my face. In one hand I had a bandage covering my infectious open wounds (so the Germans wouldn’t see). The wounds never healed. In my other hand, I had a blanket, my only possession, covering my body because I was so cold.

Due to the excessive running, my bandage would often fall. I put it in my coat. The cold crept into my open wounds, it was a horrid pain. I kept crying. I was very hungry and tired. I had frostbite. My bread was stolen from me overnight, right from under my head while I slept. We all ran like sheep following the herd every day. Each one of us had lost a friend or family member. I ran alone while all the others ran together. At 7am, we were at Lorentz Factory.

Once there, we could finally catch our breath. I had interesting work, I checked programs. I don’t know what programs: radio, plane, something else; to this day I don’t know. I got a tool from the Germans. It was a program that had “ABC” and I needed to check the tool with two electric wires. If A+A it was good, electricity would flow. I worked while sitting, it was only hunger that bothered me. I worked non-stop until lunchtime, at 1pm. We would have a small, thick soup at that point, with seeds and sprouts. I could have easily eaten a few more, but only 1 was given to me. The work day ended at 7pm. We could only go to the bathroom with an escort. The guard waited to get enough people, then as a group we were taken to the bathroom.

It was dark outside and cold to the bone. In this cold we returned to camp. My fingers and toes were frostbitten from running so hard. I’d often fall but would get up fast. There was so much snow and ice, we constantly slipped. Once back, we hurried to get in long lines that curved around the kitchen. We were served a bowl of soup, but thinner than at lunch. There were also 2 – 3 small cooked potatoes.

With my bowl, I walked to my room where there were 20 – 25 ladies. In order to avoid aerial bombings, our surroundings were kept very dark. It was a far walk from the kitchen to our room. I would spill some of the soup along the way, as I couldn’t see. With all my strength, I would sit down and eat the food. If only I could have received a little more… all I wanted to do was eat. I would have given my whole life for another bowl of soup. It’s hard to describe something like that. When you’re that starving, you would give everything for a bit more food. I only wanted to sleep and rest. Once in a while we were lucky enough to receive a bit of bread with jam or butter. I always took a lot of time to eat my food.

Sometimes I wonder how we were able to work so hard with so little food. Unbearably little food. I always ate all of the bread, I didn’t save any for the next day. I feared it would be stolen. It was so hard to sleep when the stomach is so empty and it’s so cold. With the few calories in my stomach I could finally get some sleep.

All of us had tiny wooden beds. We slept two to a bed, so we could keep each other warm. We never undressed, as we had nothing else to wear. I only took off my coat. No one wanted to sleep with me because I was so cold I would wet the bed.

There was a tall, big lady with us who had tuberculosis. I forgot her name. She spit blood when she coughed. So no one wanted to sleep with her either. Neither one of us having much of a choice, we bunked together. It wasn’t easy for me, she almost took up the whole bed on her own.

There were Hungarians and Poles in the room. I was tucked in the corner. I barely slept 3 – 4 hours each night. My pains, the wounds, all bothered me. The horrid pains simply kept me up. There was also pain in my kidney and bladder. In horrid pain, I woke up to go to the bathroom routinely. When I wet myself, I didn’t have a change of clothes. This was one day in 365 I spent in the labor camp. This was a standard day, and how I celebrated my 16th birthday. In my dreams, I constantly thought of my parents, whom I knew were not alive. I also dreamt of a plate full of food.

[Journal skips to March 1981]

Arnon has recently turned 2. He says Saba “Ooda” [reference here to my calling my other Grandfather, Yehuda, Ooda]. It’s nice to eat good food. I recalled the concentration camp, in particular the uncooked potatoes I was able to steal in Guben. I put the potatoes on the bread.

After months, the wounds would not heal. The badge would always fall after I took a couple steps. Oh how bad my pain was, one can’t even imagine. Who knows, Arnon, maybe you’ll find my diary and read it one day… I cook oatmeal for you.

They say we go to our death like a herd in a slaughterhouse. Did we even have any other choice? After Hitler’s power, there were 33 democratic countries as part of Evans Assembly in Germany. All these democratic countries could not give shelter to the European Jewish refugees. And England blockaded Palestine and didn’t let the refugees in, expelling those that came by boat.

[Incidentally, my Dad's parents (not yet married) were headed to Haifa Harbor in August of 1946. Their ship was intercepted and routed to Cyprus. They spent the next year and a half there, and were actually married there.]

The assembly didn’t do anything other than condemn the Nazis. They didn’t save anyone from anywhere. They didn’t provide salvation for the refugees. There was nowhere to go. What could we do? [All of this was before the labor camps in Hungary]

What could we do, rebel? All the young men who could hold weapons had already been taken to labor camps in Russia. My Dad had spent two years in Russia. [Grandmother's Dad was a major in World War I]. His title was stripped away from him. Mom moved heaven and earth in order to free him from labor camp. She paid a lot.

Who could have rebelled? The sick? The weak?

[Journal moves two weeks forward, still March 1981]

David [her husband, my Grandfather] is 60 today. He is working in Tel Aviv today, I will work this afternoon. Time is going by much faster than we want. We’ve been married for 33 years. There have been good and bad times in our lives. Life is tough with our two girls, but we always got by. Hopefully there will be many more good years ahead of us. Now I’ll continue with my diary.

My wounds grew and got worse. I was at the edge of my pain threshold. I couldn’t work any longer, I simply had too much pain. I went to the infirmary in Guben. After 12 hours in the factory, I was barely able to go to the camp; some Polish, Jewish doctor said I needed surgery. With a pair of scissors, and no shots, he performed the surgery on me- I had blood poisoning. He saved my life. During the ‘surgery’ I shouted at the top of my lungs. My legs were completely blue, like stone. Afterwards, the guard in charge, a fat lady, hit me very hard. Apparently, I woke her up with my screaming.

I was in so much pain, I could only see stars. One good thing came out of this- I got to spend two weeks in the infirmary, doing no work. I got stronger, but my wounds didn’t heal. For 2 weeks, I showered, rested and laundered my clothes. Some days I didn’t wear clothes at all, because it would take three days for my clothes to dry. I only wore my raincoat during these times, I’d turn blue I was so cold. I always thought about my parents; the words that were not said, the things we didn’t do, always ran through my head.

I’m surprised and amazed how I stayed alive through all of this, while around me thousands died. It was only my strong will that wanted to live, no matter what, that kept me alive. I didn’t get depressed like the others, I feared death too much. I believe in my heart there would be an end to this suffering.

[Journal skips to December 12th, 1981]

Another year has passed. I’m 53 now. The years pass so fast. I have to hurry and write. The Holocaust made a lot of people authors and writers. People not ordinarily able to write books, following the Holocaust, have felt the need to write to ease their pains. And need to tell what happened “there”. The next generation should know the tragedy and never forget.

I didn’t fear jail, I heartily ate everything given to me. No one bothered me and I was free to explore every corner. Everything was interesting to me, I didn’t panic.

Even though my parents were there three days before me, I managed by myself in the ghetto. We got free soup. The community got money from folks like my parents. I stood waiting for my soup, in line, among these poor people. And everyone saw that I was the rich child standing in line. After two days, I was freed.

My parents paid money, so we were able to get food. I was fifteen and a half at the time, and was not particularly sad or depressed. I took it all pretty well. I went outside in the ghetto and found friends from school with whom to spend time. After 6 weeks in the ghetto, we were moved to the brick factory. My parents were depressed, sleeping in mattresses outdoors. I can’t remember if we even washed while in the brick factory. The expelling of Jews started a week later.

We were taken by cattle trains, about 60 – 80 per car. Typically these cars were used for 6 – 8 horses. They kept cramming more and more of us into the cars. Women, men, children and the elderly. Sick and healthy. They gave us two buckets; one for our needs and the other for drinking. We had to do our needs in front of everyone, just like the Middle Ages. I could barely rest. I couldn’t even straighten out because of the crampedness. People cried, screamed and coughed. There was barely anything to eat in the cars, only what we brought along with us.

My parents and I kept our cool, not crying nor screaming. What help would that have been?

The days were ok, the nights were inhuman. During these five days, some of the elderly and babies died along the way. For 5 days, only a few of the people in the car could pour out the excrements that stunk unbearably. They put the drinking bucket for all of us in the car, and the doors would close again. I was one among millions who suffered intolerably. The suffering was beyond human comprehension. And with that, Hungary was free of its Jews. We obviously didn’t know where we were headed. [On June 13, 1944, my Grandmother arrived at Auschwitz].

I had never heard of Auschwitz, it’s possible my parents had, but they never spoke about it in front of me. After 5 days, we got to Auschwitz. We got off the cars, surprised to see thousands of others do the same. The Germans went on loud speakers, and they said to leave our stuff on the car. We stood in a line 5×5 together. I saw a big road with wire mesh. There were dozens of Germans with polished boots and trained dogs around us. Many carried whips in their hands and kept everyone in order. Inmates helped the elders and babies off the train. It was all staged. The impression was that everything is OK, and this was a good environment. This calmed us down. Quiet classical music was playing there, the Jewish band played this happy music for us. The Germans like order and this created a peaceful atmosphere.

I could see smoke coming out of buildings, I still didn’t know this was the crematorium. Day and night, the spat smoke. I thought maybe it was a factory we’d work at. We were told we’d be working. We stood on the platform. At the start of the line stood Dr. Mengele. The famous hangman, he was handsome and elegantly dressed, with a whip in his hand.

We stood in line, men in one line, women in another line. I walked with my mom, arm in arm. Obviously I didn’t know what was going to happen. I looked around with no fear around me. I was a pretty young lady at 15 and a half.

My eyes met Mengele’s eyes. He saw me and screamed “HALT”. Thousands stopped walking. The doctor asked how old I was. With confidence and no fear, I said I was 15 and a half, in German. The entire place had come to a stop. He paused for a second, wondering if to send me to the left (to death) or to the right (to live). He was tapping his whip against his leg. He sent me to the right and my Mom to the left. My Mom was 49 then (almost 49 and a half).

And the line that stood still was now moving again. And with that wave of his hand, he sent thousands to their deaths. I undid arms with my mom, not saying anything, not knowing that I would never see her again.

If I had said to the doctor that I wanted to go with my Mom, he would have sent me to my death at the crematorium. To this day, I don’t know why I didn’t say I wanted to go with my Mom. This was the pre-planned thing ahead of time. Systematic murder. This was the final solution for Jews.

When I turned around, I couldn’t see my Mom, only my Dad who was taken to work with the other strong men. That was the last time I ever saw my parents. I knew nothing about my brother at this time. I followed the flow, there were thousands ahead and behind me. It never occurred to me that I would never see them again. Mom, Aunt, Grandparents, cousins, friends- all found their death in the gas chambers in Auschwitz.

No one came to help us, the world was completely indifferent to us. No one ever bombed the train tracks that brought us all in. Everyone plugged their ears, the systematic murder didn’t bother anyone. That’s why the Germans could do what they pleased. The Jew was a germ that could be destroyed. Leave no memory at all of them. That’s why the gas chambers worked day and night. They could kill “only” thousands per day.

We were helpless there, sitting behind electric barbed wires. Gradually the numbers went down, the camp started emptying out. We were like prey in a trap, sitting in the camp. We stood in the area in front of our camp for morning. It took forever. I was there for a little more than 5 months. We stood in fives in a line, heads shaved, in fact, our entire bodies were shaved. We wore clothes nobody wanted. We felt like we were not human. We experienced tremendous hunger. It’s hard to imagine how much hunger affects our ability to think. After the count, the handsome, elegant SS men allowed us back in our bunks.

My cousin did hard work, my Grandmother did simple work. Both were selected for the crematorium.

The bunk was a 3 story bed, and there were 13. My cousin and I, and 11 other girls we knew shared this place. We tried to chat about the past and our families. It was not particularly sad initially. We didn’t really know what was going on or what was going to happen.

We got bitter coffee at dawn. I almost never had any. I stayed hungry until lunch, at which time we got soup with horse meat and potatoes. It was a big pot with lots of soup. Fat, strong women distributed the food, along with big milk jugs. Those distributing stole the meat and potatoes for themselves.

We were weak and pale. Everyone shared in this soup because we didn’t have our own utensils. We would each take 10 “sips” in order. For three weeks I didn’t taste the soup. Not because of its blandness, I just couldn’t eat from mouth to mouth; used to the richness at home. My cousin Marika, advised me to close my eyes, ears and nose, and I started eating the soup.

On the first day, I got some sweet cream of wheat in water, and it was pretty good. The distributors stole some for themselves and friends and left us with very little to eat. In the afternoons we stood again for counting, always 5×5. Thousands of women. We got bread and jam/margarine/bad cheese from the Germans. Things they wouldn’t have eaten.

I remember five crematorium chimneys vividly. The fire from them was going up to the sky. Even at night, there was light like in the morning, and it constantly smelled of burnt meat. It was the smell of people who were alive just yesterday or the day before. Children, babies, elders, sick, thin- their fate was sealed. People like us who had laughed, enjoyed life, got mad, were all going up in flames in the crematoriums. But the hearts were closed. Only the darkness stayed. And the world was indifferent. People were indifferent, it wasn’t their business what was going on with us.

We had a strange bathroom. Thirty two thousand women used the bathroom. It always smelled of chlorine, it was a terrible place. When we did our needs, next in line rushed us, because there were only a few minutes. There was no paper. We took out cotton from blankets from the cars and we used this to wipe.

All 13 of us used old cotton blankets to keep warm. Those that didn’t have blankets couldn’t wipe with anything. We were like animals in the wild. We were embarrassed. There was no humanity towards us. With no personal belongings, nothing left to us, no toothbrush, no comb, not a tissue for our nose, no pens, no soap. After a while, we came to know that they made soap out of human dust. The soap was made out of ash.

All we did was lay down. We spoke of food all the time. Later we talked only about bread. I wish we could have eaten dry bread. We would have been able to eat a lot. My cousin Marika was 16, and didn’t know this was going to be her last birthday. She was always strong, healthy and well built her whole life. As opposed to me- I was always thin, sick, short and seemed 2 years younger than my real age. The irony was that she passed away and I stayed alive.

I told friends that we need to celebrate her birthday. We bought cabbage and bread. We worked our connections, sold for 1 bread slice in exchange for 1 cabbage. For her birthday, we all slept on the same level. We had slices of bread with cabbage, potato, horse meat and butter on top of it. She got 12 slices of bread from us. I didn’t watch her eat because I was so starving. It was a delicacy. I would have given years of my life just to have those, if I could have.

Everyone gave her thin slices, except for me. With a broken heart, I gave her a thick slice. Our stomachs always murmured from hunger. When we finally fell asleep, despite the noise (about 1000 of us in a tent), in 1 big place, we always dreamt of food. We would eat until completely full and satisfied. The only thought on our minds was the food.

The pain and suffering was more than we could handle. Every night, we were awakened at 1:30am for counting. We stood in order. My kidneys started hurting. One morning I fainted from pain. I was sent to the ambulance. It was very nice there, though there was no treatment. We could have laid there all day, there was no crowding, no morning count.

We even got milk and water. I would have been willing to stay there forever. I was warned not to stay too long, because it was from there that you were sent to the crematorium. After 2 days I returned to my block. In the meantime, my shoes were stolen. It was my last belonging from home. When I was sent to the right [initially, upon arriving at Auschwitz], I was sent to shower. I was only allowed to keep my shoes. I was given a dress. I wasn’t even allowed to keep my underwear. Just my dress and my shoes. Now I was left with torn shoes.

I bought underwear for three bread meals. For three days, I was so starving, human imagination cannot begin to fathom. I almost died of starvation. I had soup once a day, it was the only thing I ate at that time. But it was still worth it. We stood 5×5 hugging each other to keep warm until the count. My underwear kept me slightly warmer and I didn’t faint anymore.

Of the 13 girls, only my friend Lola- who was a pretty girl, and I had known her for years in school- followed me to the ambulance. She didn’t want to leave there, even though I encouraged her to leave with me. Since then, I have never seen her again. She was sent to a different block. She sent me a message to come visit her. It was impossible. There were big electric wire fences between blocks, guarded by nazis. No one could cross. Only those in charge of us and food distributors could cross.

And that’s how I lost a great friend, I was sad without her. Her fate was clear to me.

After my release from Sweden, I wrote to her dad and her brother about what happened to her. From time to time they took us to showers, gave us soap from human ashes, and with no choice, washed with them. They took our clothes that were disinfected, ugly clothes that the Germans didn’t want. And so my underwear were taken away from me, those I paid with blood for.

I cried a lot after losing my underwear. I had no others. In September and October it was very cold in Europe at night. Again, my kidneys started hurting intolerably. Dr. Mengele came to check up on us every two weeks and we knew what that meant. Some of us were sent to the crematoriums. Some were sent to work for Germany. From time to time I could hide among hundreds in the bathroom. I didn’t want to be exposed as very weak and thin. But in time, they guarded us tighter so we wouldn’t run away. Unfortunately I was selected for those who would be sent to the crematorium.

We walked in front of him, 25 of us girls, 5×5. Some of us had scabies, due to the dirt and inability to shower. I had a wound on my stomach, a sure sign of scabies. In the Dr.’s eyes, nothing went unnoticed, you could not hide anything. He immediately saw this and asked if itched. Obviously, I said, “no, not at all,” calmly. I knew very well that my life hung on my lie, but it still didn’t help.

We were locked in the room of the officer, who was Jewish. We were 100 girls, crammed like sardines, screaming, crying, pounding on the door. After the selection, the officer opened the door. We all quickly spread out, running around. I happened to join some other group that was headed to work. That saved my life. The officer was punished, made to run around the camp with a block on her head. (We sent her flowers in the year 2000).

One week later, there was another selection, but no Dr. Mengele this time. This time around, my stomach wound went unnoticed. Luckily for me, the illness did not spread. I was selected to do work. Others went to the crematorium. My cousin, who now looked two years older, also went to work. We separated, she went to another big block. I was alone with no friends or acquaintances. In the afternoon hours, in the free moments in between blocks, I found my cousin Marika. I asked her if we could stay together, and if she’d come back to our old block. I told her that they’ll take her for hard work, where all the strong girls and women were. Marika completely refused to come back, saying the opposite, that they’ll take us to the crematorium. I also refused to go to her for fear of hard work.

And after 6 months I saw her in Guben. I had underwear, soap and I could shower. I had a summer dress and rain coat, and a short sleeve. We got in train cars again, used for cattle. There was an oven with lots of coal on the train. The Germans kept their eyes on us, always keeping the place warm. They were burning coals for heat. It was burning days and nights. As the skinniest person, I had to stay standing, as there was no room to sit. I asked to sit down, but no one listened to my request. With no choice, I slept naked right by the burning coals. I thought I’d burn to death. We were on the train 2 or 3 days. It stopped many times. At the stop we’d get bread, margarine or even a bit of horse meat. I ate it all immediately, I didn’t want it stolen. I had been without food for longer. Finally we got to Guben, Germany, about 40 kilometers from Berlin. This was mid-October 1944. When I came off the train it was cold and raining in Guben.

I almost burnt and was black from sleeping so close to the coal. I thought I’d die of starvation and the extreme cold penetrating under my thin summer dress. And my shoes almost ripped, and the wind kept blowing and blowing. Even the Germans were very cold even though they had warm clothes and they made us run. We got to the camp from the train in an hour of running. We got a plate, cup and spoon. They told us not to lose these, because we wouldn’t get others. These were my only personal belongings after about 5 months of suffering in Auschwitz.

To this day I don’t know how I survived this suffering. Perhaps the promise of warm soup kept me alive. And they actually did give us warm soup. The only warm food after a few days. It was the first time I ate out of my own plate instead of something shared by 13. The quick ones were able to stand in line again. I was not quick enough. I also wouldn’t dare, I didn’t want to be beaten by the Germans. What I would have given for another plate of soup. I would have given my soul. I also got two small warm potatoes. I warmed my hands on them. I could barely hold my plate in my hands. I then went to little shacks. There were many rooms in every shack. In each room there were 24 people. I had two thin blankets and my own bed. The shack was not warmed. I could not sleep I was so cold. The strong ones were sent to work, but I was weak and thin, looking 12 years old. I was sent to clean the shacks initially. There was horrible filth. There was a bathroom in the corner of the shack for those needing to go at night, though typically needs were done either in the hall or on the floor. It was cold at night and running to the bathroom was too far. I spent many hours cleaning the excrement. Afterwards, we sat in the shed, cleaning beets for animal feed.

Sometimes, while separating out the spoiled beets, with my dirty hands, I’d quickly put a piece in my mouth while the Germans were watching over us. We worked very hard. Others were in the factory where it was warmer. After a few weeks, I asked the officer to put me in the factory too, as opposed to cleaning the excrement.

All day long I was in the shack or shed. My hands and legs were frozen and blue. Each evening we stood in line to get our bowl of soup, my frozen hands barely able to hold the plate. The soup would often spill on my raincoat. I cried horribly, cried, cried, and couldn’t stop. I was so hungry and tired and weak, all I wanted was a warm room and a warm bowl of soup. That was my dream. I thought it would never happen. How much can man suffer. He can suffer more than any animal, that was my thought.

I started working in the factory. At least it wasn’t so cold there. Even the Germans worked there. I was the smallest, youngest person there. I looked 12 [she is roughly 16 here]. One time, a German lady called to me, pitying me. I pointed to myself. She nodded. I feared going to her. I asked a big lady to come with me to the German lady. She had long, thick socks and wanted to give them to me. The socks were in my hand, and I was unboundedly happy. The big lady wanted to see them. Big, new socks. The big lady took them from me and never returned them, keeping them for herself. But the German lady gave them to me, not her. Who could I turn to for justice? No one cared, even if I had died at that moment. I cried and cried. We were roughly 100 ladies in this place. 24 were Polish. They were very quick and experienced, having done this before. Some worked in the kitchen making food, and they had a lot to eat, not looking skeletal like those of us walking on two feet.

Due to lack of food and vitamins, I started getting infectious wounds. To this day the scars are still on me. The Poles were very quick. Since our room was right next to theirs, I realized they stole my blanket. They made gloves, hats and socks with this. This made the suffering worse, having no blanket. One day they went to the morning count, I snuck a blanket from them back. I kept my body in it all the time so it wouldn’t be stolen again. I was working 12 hours a day in the factory, working for food, suffering.

Christmas came. We got coals to warm our room, and a small box of preserved meat. In the factory, for my quick and hard work, I was rewarded. You could get a toothbrush or snail with spoiled mayo. When my name showed up in the rewards section, I wanted a brush, but another cup of food was tough to pass up, so I selected the snails. They were pretty gross, moving in there. I gave some to the ladies in my group, the rest I ate by myself with some potatoes. I ate in the dark so as not to see what I was eating.

After Christmas, there were some good days of warming up our shack. January and February were so cold, I felt my soul was going to freeze to death. My dress was not helping to keep me warm. It was so bad, I slept in a small infirmary shack for a week. This was the second time.

Good news finally came to us. The fall of the Germans started. Near our camp, there was a French refugee camp. They also worked in the factory with us. They got a message from the Red Cross. They were prisoners of war, unlike us, we were treated as less than human. They even had newspapers. Some of the quick ones among us were able to get food from the French. One day refugees came to us, and slowly more and more, thousands, in fact. We had to share our food with even more people. They cut our bread supply.

There were lots of refugee camps around. The US entered from the outside. I saw my cousin in March of 1945, after 6 months. She was looking very weak and indifferent. She endured 12 hours a day of standing work, with rags on her feet. Nothing mattered to her. Americans came in, coming to liberate their camp. The Germans said if you can walk, you will walk, and they didn’t tell us where we were going. They said if you can’t walk, then take train cars. I refused to walk, with all my wounds. Even though we assumed we’d die if we took the train, we decided to take the train no matter what.

We were given a slice of bread, some meat, maybe margarine, then we got on the train cars. On every train, we presumed, people were killed on board. On this train, nothing happened. It took us 5 days to get to Bergen-Belsen. There was no roof on the train, and it snowed for 5 days. We were totally frozen at Bergen-Belsen.

Everyone was free to go wherever they wanted. I went to a shack, it was very packed, everyone was laying on the ground. I said to my cousin that we should find another place. We went to another shack with everyone again on the ground. We went to a third place, where everyone was sick, so there were lots of places there. Marika didn’t want to move again. Everyone had typhus, so I told here I was not staying. She had no more strength, so Marika stayed, at least there was place to rest. I went elsewhere. I went to a very packed place, and found a small spot. I went to visit Marika 2 or 3 days later, but never saw her again. Dozens died everyday, there were dead all the way up to the ceiling and more. This was May 1945, roughly.

There was very little food. There were so many dead and sick and dirty, I got typhus with fever. Bedbugs, large ones, all over my body. I was so sick and weak from illness, I found a box and did my needs in there. I took the bedbugs and threw them into the box, I couldn’t even get up. I held on to the window sill and threw them out of the window as well. The Germans escaped. The Americans and British came in and didn’t know what to do.

We got white beans, condensed milk and we were all eating this on an empty stomach. I had horrible diarrhea. Terrible. I couldn’t get up I was so weak. I could already see the end. There was no water, but there was a dirty pool with a dead body in it. I drank from this water since I had no choice.

The Americans seeing all of us, brought Germans to help out. I was put in a stretcher and taken to shower. I got washed laying down. There were wounds all over my body, plus bedbug bites. “Is the water too warm?” they asked. I couldn’t even answer, I shook my head “no”. I got new, clean pajamas. Then taken to barracks, with no beds. They got Hungarians and Germans to work for them to help out. So we got hay mattresses, then put on a cover and then I was happy. I was given coal for diarrhea. This didn’t stop, things kept flowing. Tons of food was brought in. Hungarian and Germans soldiers distributed food. I laid in bed all the time. Slowly I was starting to feel a little bit better.

I could see that I was getting healthier. I got into a terrible depression. There was lots of food and I didn’t want to eat. There was just a slice of bread hidden under my pillow. I cried, but I was too weak to actually do so. I had no tears I was so weak. What happens if I stay alive? Where will I go? What will I do? What do I have?

I didn’t eat anything but the slice of bread. My diarrhea continued. I was able to walk by holding the wall in order to go to the bathroom at this point. Two Greek Nuns brought me bed frames. They also gave me a piece of chocolate. I was so depressed, I threw it out, I didn’t even want it. I didn’t care if I lived or not. Doctors came and went, 1 more, 1 less, didn’t matter.

A bird came to my window and chirped. I saw it and my tears started flowing, all of a sudden. I will decide to live, maybe there will be someone. I got up and showered by myself. I fainted while showering. No one picked me up. I have no idea when I came to. No one cared. I met with a Miskolc acquaintance. “Did you sign up to go to Sweden?” she asked. “I didn’t sign up, I didn’t even know”, I replied. “Go run quickly, because they already closed the list.” I went to sign up, but they had closed, but somehow they still let me get on the list.

They gave me an ugly dress, underwear and an undershirt. I was taken to Sweden by train after the liberation. I passed through Lubeck, the German border [with Denmark]. I ended up in Malmo, Sweden. I was quarantined for 3 weeks. I laid down all day there. I got medicine from doctors. Somehow I recovered. I was at Loka Brunn spa area, and it was there that I recovered.

I started going to school. I learned Swedish and English history. I had a Hungarian teacher, and we were 20 Hungarian students, all women. It was not bad at all. I recovered somehow.

It started getting very cold, possibly around October ’45. I studied at a boarding school in the mornings and afternoons. People came from Palestine (1946, January/February). They visited about 40 schools. They wanted to give us a school certificate. Because I had a brother, an Aunt, and an Uncle, in a Kibbutz in Palestine (Kibbutz Ha Ogen), they recommended to take me there.

In May 1946, I was headed to Israel, the only one among the kids that got taken. I took the train to Stockholm. There was no one waiting for me at Stockholm. I was in school for a year in Sweden so I could speak Swedish. Eventually a man came late to take me. There were 600 refugees taken from Bergen-Belsen to Sweden. Most these were children. From my school, I was the only one to survive.

There was a big party for us Jews in Stockholm. From Stockholm we were taken by boat to Marseille, France. There was lots of food on the boat, I fattened up. There wasn’t much food in Sweden. I was not starving, but not too much food there. A Cairo ship took us from Marseille to Israel. I had a bit of Swedish money so I bought some cherries in France. I got an allowance in Sweden, so I also bought a watch there.

When I arrived in Israel, it was in Haifa. I met my Uncle Ferry at the Haifa Harbor. Then I was taken by bus to “Bet Olim” [place for new immigrants]. Everyone went to the kibbutz so I went along. Kibbutz Dganya Bet. This was near the Sea of Galilee, near Tverya. There was lots of food there. I fattened up even more there. There were only Jews there. For two years I worked half a day, and studied the other half. [I believe she got there May 26th, 1946]. I worked very hard. The British left in ’47. Israel became a country in ’48. We danced in the streets and were so happy that Israel became a country. Nearby Arabs were shooting at us with guns, so women and children had to leave. I got chicken pox but still left the place. I got on a bus to leave.

Along the way, one of the nights sleeping in a tent, a tent near mine was shot up with bullets, though it was empty. Again, all the women, children and ladies fled. I moved on to Kibbutz Gineh Gar. I was there until I recovered from the chicken pox, 2 weeks maybe.

My brother was in Haifa in the meantime, in the Technion University. He worked and studied. He became a Mechanical Engineer. I visited my brother there in Haifa. I paid rent there. I considered moving to the Negev but my brother said not to go, that two folks had just died there.

So I moved on to Kibbutz Givot Zayit. I went there with some group. I would have stayed there, but the Kibbutz came apart. So I came back to Haifa where I worked as a waitress in a restaurant. Things didn’t work out after a while there, so I became a house cleaner.

It was actually while in Kibbutz Givot Zayit that I met [my Grandfather] David. I was out dancing with a friend and the friend’s boyfriend. The boyfriend knew that folks at David’s table and that’s how we met.

Some time later, my Grandparents got married, had my Aunt, Miriam, and then my Mom, Lea.

In 1954, Grandma’s brother, Polly, with his wife Rina 3 months pregnant, passed away. He was on the curb of a street and he got run over by an Army Ambulance car’s inability to brake. He was 31. The son that was later born, Avishay, is my Mom’s and Miriam’s cousin. He is still alive, and I have met him many times, as well as his Mom Rina.

In 1974, Grandma started getting money from the Germans for what they had done to her.

My Grandfather’s World War II Story

As I mentioned at the beginning of my blogging about our European trip this year, my (paternal) Grandmother passed away at the beginning of the year. As my Father and Uncle were going through her apartment, they came across a short piece my Grandfather had written many years ago, as part of a book. In it, he describes some of his WWII experiences. Earlier this year, I received a scanned copy of this and spent many hours translating the archaic Hebrew into English so as to preserve the story:

Partisans Storm the town of Lenin

Part 1

My Grandfather Yehuda with his first wife, who perished at the hands of the Nazis

On March 15, 1941 I was drafted into the Red Army, there I served until the day the Nazi army invaded Russia. I was anxious about the well-being of my family members and their fate, and without asking permission from my superiors, I escaped to my house. A few days had passed, and our town was conquered by Hitler’s soldiers. I was among those that were sent by the Nazis to work in the town of Natsvitch as a slave laborer.

Here came the bitter news about the community massacre in the town, the loss of all those dear to us, for whom we stuck our necks out in burdened, arduous slavery- which crushed our bodies and souls. We were misled to believe, maliciously by our Nazi captors, that as long as we were submissive to them in the labor camp, no harm would be inflicted upon those loved ones we left behind in our town. We saw ourselves as hostages in the hands of the killers who took the lives of the helpless souls in the town. Every moment, during the long working hours and the short resting hours prior to the massacre, we could imagine our children, wives, and elders spreading their hands towards us, begging “continue working any labor, do not rebel, lest you will bring destruction upon us!” – And we continued to suffer the torment of the body and soul.

And now, all was lost! We were left alone in this world without parents, spouses, children and siblings, and there is nothing more evil than that in the world. None of us hit his head on the wall and no one went out of his mind. The lust for vengeance took over us, and was like a fire burning in our bones. It united us. We were three hundred and fifty men and we decided to rebel- abandon our evil captors and flee to the surrounding forests to wander the paths that would lead to the Partisans’ squadrons. We avoided arguing, because time was pressing. Only a few remained in the camp, as they didn’t have the strength to take this dangerous step. We decided that in order to make it more difficult for our enemies to chase after us, we had to arrange into groups that would run in different directions. No one among us knew how to break through a fence; an agreed upon sign was given and we all broke loose and ran into the forest, each group to its assigned direction.

Many of us were caught by the soldiers that were summoned to chase after us, and were killed along with those that had stayed behind in the camp. Many were hunted down- after wandering the forest for days and nights, hungry and thirsty- by the hands of the Russian and Polish peasants and turned over to the Nazis. About sixty men were able to save their souls and join various Partisan squadrons.

My friend Ze’ev Zavin and I wandered for a few days in the forest. We crossed ponds in the marshes of Pulse [region in South West Belarus] until we reached the town of Haritsinovich. There, we happened to see a squadron of Partisans one night. In that squadron we had a few acquaintances- they were the young farmers from our town. The squadron commander, Pavel Takovich, a farmer in the town of Zlochich who knew my father well, said that he was willing to accept us into his squadron, under the condition that we perform a specific assignment: derailing an enemy supply train. If we chose to accept the assignment, we would be able to join them and be treated as equal members of the squadron, but if not, he “would send us the way of brothers, with the rest of the Jews…” The farmer did not understand or sense that we expected and wished for an assignment such as this. We replied: “we can and we will do it”.

The commander quickly taught us how to handle explosives.

Together with a number of the fighters from the commander’s squadron we left for the location of the assignment. The fighters were instructed to show us the way and to ensure that we complete our assignment.

The commander, taking pity on his subordinates’ lives, was happy to come by us at random- two Jews, tortured and exhausted after journeying through, hungry and thirsty, day and night through the marshes of Richin.

Why would these two succeed? Better, then, to sacrifice these two poor, godless souls, rather than lose some of his loyal fighters.

He, himself, led us some of the distance, and would not stop lecturing us about the importance of the task at hand. He also explained the extent to which we would have to sabotage the enemy.

We were based in the marshes of Pulse, and we crossed lakes. Eventually we reached the railroad tracks. I will not describe the details of our actions. The main point was that we succeeded in derailing a large freight train from its tracks. We were told the train had forty three cars. From there we ran to the camping location of the squadron. The commander was very thankful and praised us. At that point he announced that from now on we would belong to his crew.

We were very pleased because we were able to harm our enemies. But we were not quite satisfied with our revenge.

Part 2

I said to the commander: look, our people are poorly dressed and without shoes, and here I know that after the massacre in our town, the Nazis deployed only a small force in Lenin. They moved their command headquarters to the Mikshevichi train station. Let’s attack the town, conquer it, and we’ll find lots of goods.

It was not easy to convince him. He was cautious and wasn’t rushing to put his fighters in danger. But I didn’t let it go. I talked, and repeated, and talked some more, until I finally convinced him. He called other partisan squadrons, and that’s how we assembled a force of one hundred and twenty men.

Our weapons supply and ammunition were meager: rifles were lacking, and the bullets too were very few. Days passed until we stocked up, and I was getting impatient. I was waiting impatiently and anxiously for the day I would exact my revenge, in the name of our dead.

One evening I was called to the Partisan headquarters. At that time I was presented to a man I had not seen before. Later, I became aware that the brigade was under his control. He turned to me and said: “I have been informed from your commander, Pavel, that you were the initiator of the upcoming operation we are preparing for now. That is why you will have to start it. I command you and your friend to go survey the town and bring back intelligence and accurate updates as far as what’s going on in there; there isn’t a man among us who is as qualified as you and your friend.”

Ze’ev Zavin and I left on our way, where death lurked at every step. Around midnight we came upon a poor shack located about one mile from Lenin. We knocked on the door. A Christian woman, roughly 40 years old, opened the door. We quickly forced our way in before the woman could shut the door and lock it. We saw another person in the shack, an old man laying down, who was sick, or was falling ill. The woman was scared and shocked to see two fully armed men. It looked like she realized that we were Jews, and knowing what transpired in our community, it only frightened her more. The old man, while laying down, prayed to God incessantly, his lips were uttering prayers, and maybe – swearing too… the woman stood frozen in place and remained speechless for a moment.

We took advantage of the situation and asked her:

- Where is your husband? In service with the Germans?

The woman breathed deep and began speaking in a weeping voice:

- No, no! We are not serving the Germans.

- So where is your husband?

- I don’t have a husband. I had a husband, but he died many years ago.

- And the Germans visit you at this place?

- Why would they visit? They already took everything from us, including the pigs and the chickens.

- But we know that you visit the town of Lenin where you serve the Germans.

- No, no! The woman screamed. I don’t like them… I hate them.

- Let’s see if you’re telling the truth. Tell us how many Germans are in the town, and in which houses they stay.

She started talking and it appeared to us that she was telling the truth. Her fears were seemingly fading away as she continued to speak. As we were listening to her with trust, she voluntarily told us that the number of Nazi murderers was not small at all, and that we would need to be prepared for serious combat.

They were lodged in the section of the street between the Bruchins house and Jacob Karvits’ house. Their headquarters and storage pad were at the Rodnichki house near Yisrael Galinson’s house.

I returned to the brigade commander and shared with him everything I had learned. He warned me and said: “You should know that you are being held responsible for the information you supplied us, and also the results of this military operation, and if you get us in trouble, I will behead you like a decapitated dog, you will die a dog’s death.” I replied: “I am here at your will and I will do everything I can. I know the entrances to the town and I believe and am certain that we will succeed.”

He looked me in the eye and shook my hand. He then put ten fighters under my command. We were designated as the lead group. We carefully advanced to the outskirts of the town in the dark of night. I placed each soldier under my command at their own position. The commander ordered to start by attacking, at 3am, following his signal of a red trace bullet. At 3am, everyone was already at their position, and all this was done completely silently. The murderers in the town did not know or sense any of the imminent attack. Impatiently we waited for the zero hour.

Finally, the red trace bullet flew, and we bombarded the town from all sides. The bombardment continued, without pause, until 8am, but the murderers fortified in their houses and it was difficult to penetrate in there. We found a barrel of fuel. Crawling, we rolled the barrel under Joseph Zaratchki’s house, and we lit it on fire. The house was instantly engulfed in flames, and the stampede of the murderers began. I had one more task, to blow up the storage house, the Rodnichki house. I threw two hand grenades through the windows of the house. Following the sound of the explosion, we entered the house and saw that all the town looted property was piled up, with plenty of silver and gold. Our brothers and sisters brought all these to the murderers, as they were promised that with these, their own lives and those of their households would be spared. The Nazis ran for their lives, leaving the burning town, having left behind more than ten dead.

Part 3

I turned to the commander:

- I did everything I was tasked with- let me take a leave for a few hours!

- Leave?! – The commander was surprised – what do you need a leave for?

- I wish to roam a bit in the streets of the town, perhaps I will find some of our Jewish brothers.

- And what in your mind makes you think that there are survivors after the destructive operations of the sackers?

- I heard that a number of people survived, and also the woman who gave us all of our information confirmed it– and so far everything she had said was all accurate.

The commander saw my emotional plea, understood my need:

- Fine, go, and may God help you, but be careful, the town is in flames. Here and there you can run into a Nazi murderer or a few of them.

I headed off and ran among burning houses and suffocating pillars of smoke, my face towards the ghetto. Near Kusheh Gelinson’s house I bumped into a young man from the Flostvitch village, in a Nazi policeman uniform, a hired gun for the Nazis. He saw me and remained standing as if stuck to the ground. I didn’t think too much, and shot the Nazi collaborator with my new weapon, a powerful weapon I picked up from one of the dead Nazis. The Nazi collaborator fell and died on the spot. I continued to run, passed the bridge above the lake and reached our family house at the edge of the town. I stood in front of our house, no sound and not a soul. There was this deadly odd silence in the house as it was empty of its inhabitants. I remembered that this was the house where I had my birthdays, where I grew up, where a loving mom hugged me and cared for me. I stood in front of the house, my heart was beating hard. I made a big effort to move myself away from the place. The priest’s wife came out- their house stood right next to ours- and told me that at Abraham-Isaac Heinich’s house there were more than twenty Jews the Nazis did not kill. I quickly ran over there, and after a few minutes I was surrounded by some people from our community who survived the massacre. Among them were Yehuda Schuester and his family, Nushka’s daughter and her husband and twin babies on her arms.

The survivors of our community were looking at me as a savior. Nushka’s daughter sobbed: “What will I do? Where will I go and escape with these two infants?” My heart was bleeding for them, I was consoling them, encouragingly saying: “God who saved you so far, will also rescue you in the coming days.”

What else could I do for them, in my hands only a loaf of bread and a pack of butter? I handed those over for the infants.

I was still talking to them, and Moshe Rabinovich and his family came by. He sobbed, thanked me and fell on my neck with tears and kisses. He also asked where they could all go and what they could all do.

I instructed everyone how to get to the place where our brigade was stationed, but I immediately reconsidered and decided to lead them all the way to where the fighters waited for us, for fear that our fighter s would inadvertently harm them. After we all arrived safely there, I was given the order to set the town on fire.

I first lit Hillel Epstein’s house on fire, where half the town’s jewelry was piled.

As I walked away, Herman came towards me, brother of Henkah. Herman’s sons took part in the massacre of our community with his avid approval shot and killed him in the name of our community.

After that, Ze’ev and I walked to the holy and pure graves of our community. The mass graves had risen a bit above their surroundings. The blood trails still were not wiped out. Near the graves, we found piles of women’s hair. We both stood crying with tears.

In the meantime the Nazi murderers regrouped, brought in reinforcement and began shooting at us.

We were forced to say one final goodbye to our loved ones, forever, and returned to the marshes and forests to continue battling with the Nazis.

We both swore, Ze’ev and I, that if one of us were to survive the horrendous war, we would tell the other’s story to their friends. Here, I ask, is where Ze’ev’s name will be memorized, in the history book of our town. Ze’ev died in the battlefield.

I have captured only a part of the things my eyes saw and I experienced, I couldn’t bear to describe more, because each time I think about the horrors we experienced, it brings back the painful memories. The sad memories cause me to be deeply shocked and shaken my heart is filled with a deep grief and depression like no other.

Reading Between the Lines

It’s not easy to follow my grandfather’s story because of his cultural writing style, but essentially, he’s describing the events that took place long after the Nazis seized his city. His actions were motivated by a strong sense of duty and vengeance.

In the second paragraph, he mentions a town massacre. What happened was that the Nazis seized the city, then sent all the able-bodied Jewish men to labor camps, promising that their toil would keep their families safe. However, once the men were gone, the Nazis slaughtered all of the women, children, and elderly men, and deposited their bodies into a mass grave.

By the time my grandfather escaped the labor camp and returned to his town, no one was left.

In the third to last paragraph, my grandfather, after having taken revenge on the Nazis remaining in his town, goes to the mass grave to weep for his wife, two children, his parents, and the rest of his family, all murdered by the Nazis.