Dressed in my finest winter attire, I was prepared to make it all the way to Sugar Loaf Island this time.

Back on Mattole Road, headed northwest towards Cape Mendocino, I was surprised at how much better this road now seemed. It was a breeze to drive 40 minute stretch, passing through Petrolia and Cape Town along the way.

It was roughly 1:30pm when we pulled into the only location that allows access to the beach- a small gravel (probably not intended as parking) area which has a plaque commemorating Cape Mendocino Lighthouse. It was almost 2 hours before low-tide, a good time to start the walk. It was also extremely windy and very cold and we had to put on our winter clothes for this trek.

Having failed to reach the westernmost point in California almost exactly 3 months to that day, I was really determined to make it all the way this time.

The path to get to the ocean from our parking area.

We set off on the tiny path to the ocean, and within moments were on the black sands beach. Everything about this trek was a lot easier this time around than back in early July. The weather was warmer; I had the right shoes, a beanie, gloves, a coat, and a fellow hiker willing to go the distance with me. Most importantly, the tide was pretty low, allowing us a greater freedom in choice of where to walk. We chose closer to the ocean where the sand was fairly wet from the earlier high tide. The wet sand was packed tightly and allowed for a smoother trip.

A reminder of the power and danger of the ocean.

Along the way, we came across a disturbing image of a dead seal, quickly reminding me of the danger and power of the ocean. I know I took an almost as disturbing a picture of a dead fish last time- and I’m not into dead or horrific things- but these sights seem to affect me in some way that I don’t know how to express.

Sugar Loaf Island was deceptively close the entire time (much like Punta Gorda Lighthouse was). I ultimately realized that during my last trip, I probably only made it about 1/3 of the way to Sugar Loaf and the western edge of Cape Mendocino. We kept on walking and walking, through the left twisting bend in the coastline, right beside the ocean, coming across some fairly large sized rocks which were easy to maneuver around with the water nowhere nearby.

Getting closer. This was much further than I had made it last time, and yet quite far away.

Past the large rocks, almost there.

Just about at the westernmost point, the sand was smooth and easy to walk on at this point. Or maybe I was just too excited.

After the rocks, we hit some wet flat sand which led us all the way to the westernmost point in California, and also very close to Sugar Loaf Island. Finally, Punta Gorda Lighthouse, Cape Mendocino and Sugar Loaf Island!

Setting my feet at the westernmost point in CA.

Standing at the westernmost point.

Can’t go any further west.

Satisfied by the conquest, I turned my attention up the Cape Mendocino mountain (not sure it’s actually called that) and noticed the location of the old Cape Mendocino Lighthouse. Virtually nothing is left over there from what I could see… besides a couple antennas and what seemed like an automated structure which I believe had a light and I’m guessing an automated fog horn.

We had the remainder of our food out on a few rocks near Sugar Loaf Island and eventually walked back to the car.

As we started driving back to Ferndale around 4pm or so, I was determined to find the location of this supposed path that would take me to the former Cape Mendocino Lighthouse area. For some reason (I swear it was covered by trees/bushes/shrubs last time) Tobia and I couldn’t locate it last time, but this time it was obvious. I parked the car on the side of the road and ran up the path to check it out. Sure enough, explicit signs said to keep out. Marc and I were pooped at this point and thought it best to return to the motel.

Finally, I found this path to the old lighthouse location. It really is right off Mattole road. Still can’t figure out why we didn’t see it last time.

Sure enough, this was gated. Alone the gate wouldn’t have stopped me…

But when I saw this sign, took into account the fact that we were tired, and finding a challenge for next time (?) I was ready to call it a day.

I’ve already started entertaining the thought of obtaining permission to get access to this private land and going out to see it (spring 2008 would be nice). Any volunteers for the trip to the privately owned, former Cape Mendocino Lighthouse area???

My first ever- a 1/3 shot of kettle one vodka to celebrate a great day.

Two exhausted hikers. I could only toast with water at that point.

We got back to Ferndale just before 5pm and met up with Tobia. Those who know me well, know I don’t ever drink alcohol. However, I had to do something special on this occasion to commemorate… so I had a 1/3 shot of kettle one vodka. It was foul and awful, and burnt like hell going down, but felt very celebratory.

After showering we went to have dinner at Ivanhoe, literally across the street from our motel. We feasted whole-heartedly and went back to the motel to watch TV, bum around, and ultimately crash really hard.

Early last winter, Tobia mentioned a link to me she knew I’d love- californiacoastline.org. I actually clicked all 8000 or so images as I traced the entire California coastline. When I came across Punta Gorda Lighthouse, I thought- what a depressing place, desolate as hell, out in the middle of nowhere, who’s crazy enough to want to go out there. Take a look at this, and click on some of the northwest and southeast links and it won’t take you long to see how “out there” this place is. A couple months ago I changed my mind, and decided I wanted to go out there.

After my trip with Tobia to the North West Coast of California (around 4th of July) and in particular the Lost Coast, Tobia declared that she did not want to trek the “Quick Sands Beach” again. Of course, her reference to Quick Sands Beach is really the Black Sands Beaches around the Lost Coast. The trip was extremely tough and we failed to reach the westernmost point in California. She mentioned all this to our friend Marc over dinner in SF shortly after our trip… and unbelievably he volunteered to join me on this Lost Coast trip!

So… Friday came along and we picked Marc up in SF right before 3pm. We started driving through the slow afternoon commute traffic up through the Golden Gate Bridge, and Santa Rosa. Once past Santa Rosa, traffic was finally smooth.

Right around sunset we pulled in to eat dinner at Boomer’s Fine Dining in “laid back Laytonville”. It was like a scene from a Wild West Saloon, forks dropping, everything going quiet as everyone looked at us out-of-towners. There was one guy at the bar and one lady serving the entire huge room of hungry folks. We took a seat at the bar and a random gentleman started talking to us about how Laytonville was really laid back and how all they did was grow weed there. I found the guy entertaining.

My delicious, baked, spicy tofu sandwich.

Our suite at the Fern Motel.

After sitting at the bar for about 10 minutes, we were told it’d be at least 45 minutes until we got served, and given the environment, knew the bar-man wasn’t lying. At best, we figured we might eat in an hour. Deciding to move on, we drove all the way out to Garberville, never really seeing any food along the way. Right off Garberville we continued to Redway where Mateel Café served me their delicious tofu sandwich; Marc and Tobia had steaks.
This was the 2nd time for me at this Café, having been there roughly 3 months earlier when headed to Shelter Cove.

Following dinner, we zipped through to Ferndale where we reached our very nice suite at the Fern Motel around 10:15pm. It was a great place to stay at and very conveniently located. We wound down and hit the bed in preparation for a tiring day to follow.