Cape Mendocino and Sugar Loaf Island, finally!!
Back on Mattole Road, headed northwest towards Cape Mendocino, I was surprised at how much better this road now seemed. It was a breeze to drive 40 minute stretch, passing through Petrolia and Cape Town along the way.
It was roughly 1:30pm when we pulled into the only location that allows access to the beach- a small gravel (probably not intended as parking) area which has a plaque commemorating Cape Mendocino Lighthouse. It was almost 2 hours before low-tide, a good time to start the walk. It was also extremely windy and very cold and we had to put on our winter clothes for this trek.
Having failed to reach the westernmost point in California almost exactly 3 months to that day, I was really determined to make it all the way this time.
We set off on the tiny path to the ocean, and within moments were on the black sands beach. Everything about this trek was a lot easier this time around than back in early July. The weather was warmer; I had the right shoes, a beanie, gloves, a coat, and a fellow hiker willing to go the distance with me. Most importantly, the tide was pretty low, allowing us a greater freedom in choice of where to walk. We chose closer to the ocean where the sand was fairly wet from the earlier high tide. The wet sand was packed tightly and allowed for a smoother trip.
Along the way, we came across a disturbing image of a dead seal, quickly reminding me of the danger and power of the ocean. I know I took an almost as disturbing a picture of a dead fish last time- and I’m not into dead or horrific things- but these sights seem to affect me in some way that I don’t know how to express.
Sugar Loaf Island was deceptively close the entire time (much like Punta Gorda Lighthouse was). I ultimately realized that during my last trip, I probably only made it about 1/3 of the way to Sugar Loaf and the western edge of Cape Mendocino. We kept on walking and walking, through the left twisting bend in the coastline, right beside the ocean, coming across some fairly large sized rocks which were easy to maneuver around with the water nowhere nearby.
After the rocks, we hit some wet flat sand which led us all the way to the westernmost point in California, and also very close to Sugar Loaf Island. Finally, Punta Gorda Lighthouse, Cape Mendocino and Sugar Loaf Island!
Satisfied by the conquest, I turned my attention up the Cape Mendocino mountain (not sure it’s actually called that) and noticed the location of the old Cape Mendocino Lighthouse. Virtually nothing is left over there from what I could see… besides a couple antennas and what seemed like an automated structure which I believe had a light and I’m guessing an automated fog horn.
We had the remainder of our food out on a few rocks near Sugar Loaf Island and eventually walked back to the car.
As we started driving back to Ferndale around 4pm or so, I was determined to find the location of this supposed path that would take me to the former Cape Mendocino Lighthouse area. For some reason (I swear it was covered by trees/bushes/shrubs last time) Tobia and I couldn’t locate it last time, but this time it was obvious. I parked the car on the side of the road and ran up the path to check it out. Sure enough, explicit signs said to keep out. Marc and I were pooped at this point and thought it best to return to the motel.
I’ve already started entertaining the thought of obtaining permission to get access to this private land and going out to see it (spring 2008 would be nice). Any volunteers for the trip to the privately owned, former Cape Mendocino Lighthouse area???
We got back to Ferndale just before 5pm and met up with Tobia. Those who know me well, know I don’t ever drink alcohol. However, I had to do something special on this occasion to commemorate… so I had a 1/3 shot of kettle one vodka. It was foul and awful, and burnt like hell going down, but felt very celebratory.
After showering we went to have dinner at Ivanhoe, literally across the street from our motel. We feasted whole-heartedly and went back to the motel to watch TV, bum around, and ultimately crash really hard.























